Once war-torn, now sublime, Vietnam is long, lovely and languorous.
21.07.2023 - 08:31 / roughguides.com
If you want to try eating snake in Vietnam, there's one place to head – Le Mat snake village near Hanoi . The restaurants here specialise in the art of serving snake in an elaborate theatrical show. Feeling brave enough? Here's what to expect.
When the man bringing your meal to the table is missing most of his fingers and the main ingredient is not only still alive but also long and writhing and – hang on, is that a cobra? Well, that’s when you know this is no ordinary dining experience. Eating at one of Hanoi’s snake restaurants is as much a theatrical performance as a meal out.
The decor is way over the top. From a grungy side-street you enter a world of exuberant woodwork with mother-of-pearl inlay glowing in the lantern light. Bonsai plants are scattered artfully while off to the side glass jars containing snake wine hint at what’s to come.
When everyone’s settled, the snake handler – he with very few fingers – presents the menu. He kicks off with cobra, the most expensive item on the menu (and a choice photo-op), then runs through the other options, all very much alive and hissing. Traditionally, your chosen snake is killed in front of you, though it will be dispatched off-stage if you ask. The guest of honour (lucky you?) then gets to eat the still-beating heart.
The Vietnamese say it contains a stimulant and that the meat is an aphrodisiac. The jury’s out on both counts, however, because of the copious amounts of alcohol everyone consumes. By way of an aperitif you get two small glasses of rice wine, one blood red, the other an almost fluorescent, bile-ish green… which is in fact exactly what they are.
Things get decidedly more palatable as the meal starts to arrive. In a matter of minutes your snake has been transformed into all manner of tasty dishes: snake soup, spring rolls, dumplings, fillets, even crispy-fried snake skin. Absolutely nothing is wasted. It’s washed down with more rice wine, or beer if you’d rather, and to round things off, some fresh fruit and green tea – with no snake sorbet forthcoming.
If you are not into such an extrime activities you can spent time much more casualy in a variety of the best Vietnamese bars and clubs.
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Once war-torn, now sublime, Vietnam is long, lovely and languorous.
Whether you choose to live like royalty or scrimp on a shoestring in Vietnam, you’re going to have a memorable trip.
Adventures abound in Vietnam. You can climb the heights and scuba dive the lows, immerse yourself in culture or just kick back on the sand, confident in the knowledge that a fantastic meal is waiting for you at the end of the day. But there are things to know before you go, to avoid pitfalls in paradise. These are our top tips.
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Wrapped around the east coast of mainland Southeast Asia like a mythical Naga serpent, Vietnam naturally lends itself to overland travel. Its two biggest cities – Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) – are divided by 1100km of rice paddies, tropical jungles, historic townships, wartime relics, national parks and sandy beaches, and most people plot an itinerary that takes in both of these lively hubs.
Hanoi has always been a city of tales and legends. Its ancient name, Thang Long, which means “the Rising Dragon,” comes from a tale about Emperor Ly Thai To witnessing a golden dragon ascending when he moved the capital here in 1010. The city is now the heartland of Vietnamese literature — home to many of our finest writers, literary festivals and book fairs.
Slurping on scalding roadside pho and running your fingers through mountains of silks while incense wafts from sacred pagodas, everything about Hanoi is a sensory experience. In terms of where to stay in Hanoi, the Old Quarter (Hoan Kiem) places you in the midst of markets and street food spots. If you’d rather sleep away from the roar of motorbikes, check out accommodation in Hanoi’s French Quarter or the monument-studded Ba Dinh. North of the bustling center, the tranquil West Lake (Tay Ho) district is the best area to stay in Hanoi long-term. Overflowing with character, these Hanoi Airbnbs immerse you in the Vietnamese capital.
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With striking landscapes, large stretches of lovely coastline, intriguing cities and excellent food, it’s no wonder the number of tourists in Vietnam has more than doubled in the last decade or so.
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