Edinburgh vs Glasgow: How to choose between Scotland's liveliest cities

30.10.2024 - 21:03 / lonelyplanet.com / Royal Mile / Walter Scott

Oct 30, 2024 • 9 min read

Less than an hour apart by train, Glasgow and Edinburgh are firm but friendly rivals, each showcasing a different side to Scotland's character. If you take a trip to Scotland, you'll likely start from one city or the other, with trains and planes dropping in daily from around the UK and across the world.

But which city should you choose for a first stop in the land of whisky, glens and Nessie? Cultured Edinburgh, with its grand monuments and tartan trim? Or convivial, unpretentious Glasgow, with its working-class soul? Here, two of our writers make the case for the cities they love to help you decide.

After an impactful first visit to Edinburgh in 2008 and several years living in London, Kathryn Streeter started visiting Edinburgh regularly when her children attended the University of St Andrews. Today her daughter is married to a Scot, ensuring ongoing visits to the city. Here she makes the case for starting your trip in Edinburgh.

Although it is technically the smaller of Scotland’s two biggest cities, the 900-year-old Scottish capital feels intimate and knowable, with its iconic Old Town wrapped around an ancient volcanic outcrop near the Firth of Forth. Edinburgh's majestic castle, showy landmarks and atmospheric, twisting alleys are sure to dazzle. Adding a dash of spice, the 18th-century New Town is decked out with stately Georgian townhouses, designer shops and elegant squares.

Edinburgh's big personality engenders affection and enchantment. You'll quickly come to think of Auld Reekie (the city's 17th-century nickname) as an endlessly interesting old friend. Marked on the UNESCO-World Heritage list for its historic downtown, Edinburgh is fairytale material and it can’t be topped, for all Glasgow’s endearing virtues. 

To me, Edinburgh's varied topography and sea views are fundamental to its appeal. Sitting on seven hills, the city's ruggedly uneven landscape adds drama, with a romantic, winding web of steep roads delivering new discoveries around every turn. 

Adjacent to Waverley Station – named for the Sir Walter Scott novel – the charm offensive begins at Princes Street Gardens, created on the mound of earth excavated during the construction of the New Town. Prepare for sensory overload when you exit this green space – lined up in front of you are the towering monument to Walter Scott, the grand Balmoral hotel on Princes Street and the stone-lined streets of New Town. Shifting your gaze, you'll get your first glimpse of the ancient castle that crowns the city, with its spiky Gothic spires jutting skyward.

Edinburgh's Old Town runs along the bustling Royal Mile, with Edinburgh Castle at its peak atop Castle Rock. Here you'll find the city’s oldest structure, St