Hokkaido on four wheels: How to explore Japan’s wild north

12.01.2024 - 09:20 / nationalgeographic.com

With intriguing historical landmarks, charming coastal villages and some of the best seafood in the country, Hokkaido — Japan’s second-largest, northernmost island — has earned its reputation as one of the most desirable destinations in the country. A rugged rise of rock, peppered with pine forests, smoldering volcanoes and jagged coastline, Hokkaido has been the native homeland of the Indigenous Ainu people for centuries. On the other hand, 150-plus years of fast-tracked development have added a contemporary character to the island and motorways have sprung up across the expansive prefecture, facilitating convenient travel between formerly far-flung towns and cities. From the buzzing neon lights of Sapporo to the sacred settlement on the shores of Lake Akan, here’s four of the best destinations to visit across Japan’s second-largest island. 

A port city in eastern Hokkaido, Kushiro feels more like a quaint fishing town than the regional capital. With a long-standing fishing industry and thriving market, Kushiro is known for its seafood: amble around the downtown area towards the harbour to get a glimpse of the local fishermen at work. Afterwards, head to Kushiro Washo Market, the local fish market, where visitors can choose their favourite sashimi and create their own seafood rice bowl, otherwise known as katte don. Alternatively, visit one of the various izakaya(laidback Japanese bars) offering robatayaki (fresh local seafood grilled over charcoal).

Located just 30 minutes north by car, Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, Japan's largest wetland, is also well worth a visit. It’s home to a huge variety of plants and animals, including the white-tailed eagle, the rare Siberian salamander, the Ezo sika deer and the iconic red-crowned crane. A guided canoe tour with Touro Nature Center takes travellers through the many winding waterways.

About an hour’s drive north of Kushiro lies Lake Akan Ainu Kotan, a sacred, lakeside settlement home to Hokkaido’s Indigenous Ainu peoples. More than 100 live in the area, many of whom share their culture and traditions through the town’s various museums and small craft shops. Chief among them is wood carving, traditionally the domain of Ainu men, who sculpt wood into tools and adorn their surfaces with patterns passed down through generations. Pick up a unique souvenir at Jissenkoubou Ashiri or Osarun Betsu Kotan-Ya before catching a traditional dance performance at the town’s local theatre. Held from late April to late October and from early December to mid-March, these performances are used to express respect and gratitude towards their ancestors and the kamuy (Ainu gods).

Lake Akan is also the perfect stopover for any visit to Shiretoko National Park, a UNESCO World