How Malta Is Exporting Its Most Successful Restaurant To London

30.05.2024 - 07:01 / forbes.com

Not too long ago, Malta, an intriguing island found 50 miles south of Sicily, had something of an image problem: it was intrinsically linked as the destination of choice for retirees and perhaps the last place that an adventurous traveler might venture.

Those days are gone. Since Malta was made Capital of Culture in 2018, it has slowly shaken off this mantle and risen as a buzzy archipelago offering a range of activities and interests for a varied type of explorer: whether it is to soak up the capital Valetta’s rich architecture or to jump into the huge array of outdoor activities that can be enjoyed here (thanks to the island’s balmy climate and beautiful scenery). Its golden beaches sit in contrast to some of the country’s more stark and dramatic landscapes, a reflection of the mix-match of cultures found here, which also adds to its multi-layered and eclectic feel.

Most of all, though, Malta has emerged as a foodie destination in Europe, earning a new reputation of being a culinary centre with its plethora of local eateries and Michelin-starred restaurants.

Leading the charge, has been the db Group, which was founded by Silvio Debono in 1984, and now considered the largest hospitality group in Malta, with an annual turnover in excess of €192 million. What Malta might lack for in size—it is only 17 miles long and nine miles wide—it makes up for in its collection of inventive restaurants, many of which come from the stable of db Group, including AKI, its flagship Japanese restaurant in Valletta, which the company is now poised to launch in London.

“It is true that Malta, as a tourist destination, has evolved significantly over the past decade,” says Robert Debono, Silvio’s oldest son and CEO of the db Group. “Not only are there new cuisines on offer at varied restaurants, but there is a heightened sense of detail that is now present in hospitality. I am referring to the food, of course, but also within the design, lighting and ambience, not to mention the presence of the Michelin Guide now, which was launched in Malta in 2020.”

Db Group started life with the opening of a small guesthouse in Mellieha, a hilltop village in northern Malta. Over time, Silvio eventually transformed this into Malta’s largest hotel and the island’s first all-inclusive resort, the db Seabank Resort and Spa. Since then, the company has grown further to encompass a second all-inclusive hotel, the San Antonio Resort and Spa, as well as 11 fine dining restaurants across Malta, encompassing Chinese cuisine (at Tora); Nikkei food (at LOA) Spanish dishes (at Espiral) and Asian-inspired cookery (at Amami, which was the group’s first standalone restaurant opening). Under the F&B arm of the company, the Lifestyle Group, the brand also