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How to See Great White Sharks on Cape Cod Responsibly
07.08.2023 - 19:11 / cntraveler.com
The term “safari,” which comes from the Swahili for “journey,” is now used to describe ecotourism experiences beyond those in Africa. When English speakers adopted the term, it originally referred to bush hunting trips; as those waned in popularity over the 20th century, “safari” became less associated with hunting, and more associated with what professionals today refer to as photographic safaris. We now see the term “safari” apply to ecotourism experiences like tiger safari in the jungles of Ranthambore, India; puma safari in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park; polar bear safari in sub-arctic Canada. And while I haven’t yet heard any Massachusetts locals explicitly use the term yet, I would like to proclaim here and now: a shark safari in the waters off Cape Cod—which is estimated to have the highest density of white sharks in the world—should now be counted on that list.
Here, in the summer capital of New England, it was only a matter of time—everyone on the Cape has sharks on the brain in recent years. Sightings now happen here with the same reliability as weekend traffic on the Cape's Sagamore Bridge, and sharks are simply engrained into life here now.
When I would visit Cape Cod beaches in peak summer in the ‘90s, there would be crowds as far as the eye could see, neck-deep in the water. Today, especially along the Outer Cape that meets the vast Atlantic, you’ll be hard pressed to find more than a handful of brave deep-water bathers at a time, and beach-closure signs citing shark sightings are commonplace throughout summer. It’s estimated that about 800 great white sharks call these waters home, according to a recent study, and since one fatal shark attack occurred here in 2018 (the first in the state in over 80 years), efforts to prevent future attacks have mounted. It's generally accepted that sharks have rebounded because of the increasing number of grey seals due to the protection granted to them under the US Marine Mammal Protection Act.
The ecology of the waters off Cape Cod has changed, and the culture of how we enjoy it has changed, too. (For a closer look at the how and why, there’s an excellent new documentary on HBO called After the Bite.) While swimmers are perhaps more cautious about going in the water, more adventurous types are still going out on the water: A handful of boating operators now offer shark charters, which are similar to African overland safaris in that these guided boat rides observe apex predators in their natural habitat, in a responsible and conservation-funding manner.
“When we started offering shark charters in 2017, it was basically case-by-case [and only available if] someone had a donor relationship with our organization,” said Maddie Poirier, Community
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