In the Streets of Paris, Skateboarding Is Catching Big Air
22.07.2024 - 11:30
/ cntraveler.com
This story about skateboarding in Paris is part of How Paris Moves, a series of dispatches about communities and social change in France through the lens of the 2024 Summer Olympics.
At a popular skating spot in Paris called The Dome, Franck flies off a ledge with an expert’s confidence as his skateboard, adorned with a decal of the Eiffel Tower, soars smoothly beneath him. He lands with a satisfying clack on the marble floor, and a small crowd of tourists, wielding their cameras and phones, snaps him from every angle.
“Tourists come to Paris to visit the Louvre, but they end up photographing us,” Franck says. Certainly, the present scene is out of a film: sunlight glinting through scattered raindrops as onlookers watch roughly a dozen skaters take turns skating down a grand marble staircase as the Eiffel Tower—the real one—looks on from across the Seine. When they trip, they try again; when they pull off a trick, their audiences of fellow skaters and fans-for-the-day burst into applause and cheers.
Franck is one of the day’s stars. He’s a seasoned skater at 43, evident in his skillful work on the board and his graying hair, all of it underscored by a youthful air, dressed as he is in fashionable streetwear. He works for a store that sells nursery furniture, he tells me, and to blow off some steam during his lunch breaks, he comes here to skate at The Dome.
The Dome isn’t exactly a skatepark, at least not in the traditional sense. It doesn’t have the usual ramps, rails, or bowls. Instead, this place features a few stairs, a central pool, and statues that date back to the 19th century—it’s part of the Palais de Tokyo in the 16th arrondissement of Paris. The site is split into three sections: The east side is home to the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, featuring a collection of modern and contemporary art; the west side is dedicated to short-term exhibitions; and between them is the Fontaine de Palais de Tokyo and its square, which faces the Seine and is crowned by a series of staircases where skaters glide down its steps and balustrades.
Though skaters have been part of the urban landscape of Paris since the 1970s (there was once a homemade half-pipe set up in the Trocadéro), the global skating circuit took notice of the city in the early 2000s when American skating greats like Eric Koston and Stefan Janoski began frequenting The Dome. Their visits, often captured in promotional videos for their skateboarding sponsors, elevated the French capital into a marquee destination for skateboarders all over the world. Then followed a list of ephemeral skating spots—along the banks of the Seine, over the steps of the Bercy Arena—where skaters attempted to carve out a space for themselves in this millennia-old