Kirkwall, Orkney: The Scottish Town With A Norwegian Heart

08.11.2023 - 21:37 / forbes.com

On the windswept islands of Orkney, where the North Sea meets the Atlantic, a story every bit as gripping as the Norse sagas is unfolding.

Orkney is a cluster of 70 islands located just 10 miles off the northern coastline of Scotland. Separated from the mainland by a treacherous stretch of water, Orkney has a history and Norse-influenced culture all of its own.

Nowhere is this culture more visible than in Kirkwall, the biggest town and capital of the islands. Here, the flag of Orkney and the flag of Norway—both extremely similar—share prominence, more so than the Scottish Saltire and especially the Union flag. The town’s St. Magnus Cathedral is packed with connections to Norway, and especially Trondheim.

Recently, the Orkney Islands Council ignited a debate that resonates with the islands' historic Scandinavian ties, voting to explore the possibility of "greater subsidiarity and autonomy" and to strengthen their "Nordic connections."

The council's latest motion may not herald a literal reunification with Norway, but it is the latest in a series of strategic and symbolic gestures to leverage Orkney's distinct Norse heritage in the quest for greater recognition.

Orkney was ruled as part of Norway until 1472. Then, due to the non-payment of a dowry that was promised by Margaret of Denmark's family for her marriage to James III, Scotland annexed Orkney. The islands have since remained part of Scotland.

However, grievances under recent British rule have surfaced several times causing the islanders to glance in the direction of Scandinavia, highlighting the pro-autonomy sentiment within the Orcadian community.

A stroll through the streets of Kirkwall swiftly immerses one in the island's Norwegian legacy, starting with the most notable landmark.

The heart of Kirkwall is undoubtedly the magnificent St. Magnus Cathedral, the northernmost cathedral in Britain and fondly known as the 'Light in the North'.

Founded in 1137 by Earl Rognvald in honor of his uncle St. Magnus, the cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture. Its red and yellow sandstone walls hold centuries of history.

Inside, the Norwegian flag hangs proudly alongside the Union flag. A statue of Saint Olav, gifted from Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim—home of Norway’s patron saint—watches visitors pass by.

Among the cathedral's spiritual treasures is a historic Norwegian-language Bible, a proud emblem of Orkney's heritage.

Beyond the cathedral, Kirkwall offers more activities for the curious traveler. Although the building is dated, the Orkney Museum still manages to tell the rich story of the islands from prehistoric times to the present day.

Orkney in the Viking Age and its time under Norwegian rule is covered, but as part of the wider