Writer Monisha Rajesh reports on her overnight journey on the Caledonian Sleeper train from London to Edinburgh
Blinds down and humming quietly, the Caledonian Sleeper already snaked along the length of the platform as I braced against the wind in search of my carriage.
It was just after 11 pm, and the thrill of adventure was setting in. A wave of passengers pushed toward the exit of London’s Euston station, while I wheeled my bag against the tide, delighted that I was about to board one of the UK’s only two overnight train services. Climbing up the steps into a carriage warm as toast, I produced my ticket and was handed the key card to my room.
Like most sleeper trains, the Caledonian Sleeper offers a range of options to suit different budgets and requirements, with accessible wheelchair-friendly rooms available. At the top end of the scale is the Caledonian Double which has an en-suite shower, a toilet room and breakfast included. The Club Room offers the same but with a twin bunk. The Classic Room is the most popular choice with travelers, but has no toilet or shower room, and breakfast is an optional extra. At the bottom end of the scale is the Seated Coach, which usually resembles a sixth-form common room: socked feet hanging over armrests, hoodies pulled over tired eyes, and heads face down on tray tables doubling up as pillows. For £50 a seat, it’s around the same price as a flight but without the hassle and cost of traveling to and from airports and stumping up for a hotel.
Three years earlier, I’d taken the same service from Glasgow to London, expecting to travel on the much-hyped fancy new fleet after Serco had taken over the franchise. But owing to numerous delays and setbacks to the grand unveiling, the familiar, fusty old cars waited on the platform instead. Eight months pregnant and unable to fly, I’d rolled myself into a lower bunk and spent most of the night being jolted awake by thuds, creaks and braking, grateful for my ever-expanding center of gravity. This time I’d decided to treat myself.
For her 70th birthday, I’d booked my mother a surprise trip on the Royal Scotsman and decided to meet her in Edinburgh by traveling the 337 miles on the Lowlander service from London. Running six nights a week (excluding Saturdays), this service connects London with Edinburgh and Glasgow; the Highlander route takes passengers up to Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William.
While looking for tickets, I saw that it made no difference to the price whether I booked four days or four months in advance. So, curious about the Caledonian Double, I’d coughed up an eye-watering £345 to travel one way, and was now peering into a small room with an ample, square bed fitted tight to the corners. On the duvet laid a
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