It’s time to bust the myth that there’s nothing to do in the Maldives apart from sipping rainbow-hued cocktails, snapping beachfront selfies and sprawling on chaise longues.
29.01.2024 - 11:17 / theguardian.com / London St Pancras
‘You should be very proud,” said Chemmy Alcott, as my face smacked into thick snow for the third time and my goggles began to steam up with the exertion of constantly righting myself. “You’re one of the first 100 people to come through here this season. You’re flattening the trail, making it easier for everyone else.”
Alcott, a one-time Olympic downhill ninja and now the effervescent co-host of the BBC’s Ski Sunday, had swung us into the Hidden Valley, one of her secret showstoppers in the Tignes area, after delivering a warning. “This is off-piste,” she said, suddenly serious. “So you do this at your own risk.”
As we jittered on to the snaking trail, which was about the width of a tea tray, we quickly realised this wasn’t a valley at all: more of a tight, twisting gorge, flanked by sheer-sided boulders and dotted with hair-raising drops that even Alcott couldn’t descend without taking off her skis.
“What a mellow morning,” she said breezily, as the sunlight cascaded through the pines all around us. That wouldn’t have been my word for it, especially when the track veered into a delightful snow-dusted forest. I caught an edge and ended up cartwheeling down the mountain, almost taking out some hikers snowshoeing up through the drifts. “Those runs we did to get here,” said Alcott when I finally caught back up, “they’re lovely and they’re fun – but they’re not memorable. This is memorable.”
It was a spectacular introduction to the many delights of Tignes – and it was just the warm-up. Ahead lay the Four Corners Challenge: an up-at-dawn, skip-the-long-lunch sprint around the extremities of the linked area of Tignes and Val d’Isère. This odyssey reaches its giddying climax atop the wind-blasted Grande Motte glacier, some 3,456 metres up.
As I lay sweating in the hotel sauna that evening, I could feel the impact of the slopes on every bit of my body. But nowadays, of course, you also have to think about your own impact on the slopes. Global heating is already having a devastating effect on the Alps, with the lack of snowfall leaving resorts, especially lower ones, struggling to stay open for the whole season. One, La Sambuy, has permanently closed its slopes.
For once, though, I was able to enjoy these breathtaking mountains without the gnawing guilt generally associated with reaching them. I’d come by rail, departing from London St Pancras at 9am on a Saturday – aboard the inaugural journey of Eurostar’s resurrected Snow Train, a service axed in 2020 when Covid struck.
After one rapid change at Lille, where we didn’t even have to switch platforms, our roomy TGV eased into Bourg St Maurice after nightfall, having sped past some ravishing sunsets over gleaming lakes. The train certainly seemed popular with
It’s time to bust the myth that there’s nothing to do in the Maldives apart from sipping rainbow-hued cocktails, snapping beachfront selfies and sprawling on chaise longues.
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