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On the French Coast, Surfer's Paradise Hossegor Is the Low-Key Alternative to Buzzy Biarritz
19.07.2023 - 14:37 / cntraveler.com
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In Hossegor, a tiny coastal town in southwestern France, quiet mornings invite strolls around Lac d'Hossegor, a reservoir steps from the beach. Mornings can easily turn into lunches at the all-day oyster cabanas and at open-air spots like Bistro Balnéaire, which slings regional delicacies such as chipirons, or fried squid. Late afternoons are for sipping spritzes on café patios and shopping for swimwear at Albertine, a boutique with sister outposts in Paris and Biarritz.
French families like to vacation in woodsy bungalows near the dunes, but until recently, the enclave had escaped the notice of Americans—at least those outside the surf scene. Stars like Kelly Slater sometimes drop in for World Surf League competitions at La Gravière beach, which has helped Hossegor earn the nickname Landifornia. But several new and refreshed hotels, along with chic restaurants and shops, are helping raise the town's profile.
The naive-style artwork inside the Pool House at Les Bords du Lac is inspired by the landscapes of Hossegor, artist Steven Burke's adopted home.
On the shore of Lac d'Hossegor is the 25-room Les Hortensias du Lac, whose 2019 redesign added playful touches like rattan rugs and in-room swings. Down the road, the luxury-rental company Iconic House opened Les Bords du Lac, a six-bedroom villa, last summer. With its overhanging roofs, colored beams, and bas-reliefs, the Basco Landais–style residence marries the casual vibe of a vacation home (one with a pool, a pétanque court, and a private cinema) and the service of a top hotel.
Crafted by chef Philippe Moreno, a modern take on tarte Tatin at Les Hortensias du Lac’s restaurant
Over on Plage Nord, home to some of Europe's best swells, the snack shack Lou Cabana attracts surfers with light, fresh fare (veggie tartines, poke bowls). Down the coast in the neighboring town of Capbreton, the bistro Goustut serves up inventive seafood dishes like creamy crabmeat with popcorn. The town is also home to Domaine de la Pointe, one of France's last remaining sand-based vineyards. Go for a late-afternoon tasting and get back to Hossegor in time to watch the moon rise over the lake.
This article appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
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