Paris Is Becoming a Cycling City, for Better or Worse
19.07.2024 - 11:07
/ cntraveler.com
This story about biking in Paris is part of How Paris Moves, a series of dispatches about communities and social change in France through the lens of the 2024 Summer Olympics.
On a sunny afternoon this spring, I rode a bike from Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the sixth arrondissement to Châtelet in the first to meet a friend. The feeling of sliding along the Seine was incredible—wind against my skin, the fresh feeling that comes with breezing past a body of water—until I reached my destination, where I stumbled upon the usual scene: four cyclists struggling to return their rides to a completely full bike rental station. Another biker and I spent 15 minutes finding another station with free spots—and another 15 to walk back to the first station, near where we had to be. We complained, but simply had to laugh. How typical this had become, just another Sunday for the cyclists of Paris.
Short or big, rusty or brand-new, sometimes with a ringing bell that alerts and annoys, bicycles are inescapable in the capital. This epitome of Frenchness, often associated with rather stereotyped Parisian accessories—up there with the baguette, the béret, and the Marinière shirt (that striped pattern, you know the one)—has become indispensable in the City of Light. As the city has been increasing its investment to make Paris more bike-friendly, the use of bikes by Parisians (about 11% of commutes) surpassed the use of cars (about 4%) for the first time in 2023, according to the Institut Paris Région, a research center for urban development in the the Île-de-France region.
Indeed, the bike is a typical urban lifeline for us Parisians: a source of freedom as well as an everyday burden. Train workers on strike? Simply zip from Left Bank to the Right, across one of 37 bridges in the city, on your own two wheels. But good luck finding an efficient way back to the Seine once you reach the nearly-impassable end of Rue du Renard, or weathering the rocky ride on the cobblestones when you bike through Place Denfert-Rochereau. When it comes to Paris and cycling, her spirit is willing, but her infrastructure is not.
The Boulevard de Sébastopol is a north-south lifeline that runs from Châtelet, just across the river from the Notre Dame, to Strasbourg-Saint-Denis, in front of Gare de l’Est. It is one of the most used bike routes of Paris, pumping nearly 20,000 cyclists every day like blood cells through an artery. I’m sitting at a café, keeping an eye on the street and watching the city go by, when I meet Fabien Esnard-Lacombe, a 55-year-old illustrator and avid cyclist.
People realize that they don’t know Paris that well when they get out of the Metro and try cycling, Esnard-Lacombe says, with a classic Parisian mien—sarcastic and