The Causeway Coast: Northern Ireland's legendary landscape
21.07.2023 - 08:04
/ roughguides.com
/ Northern Ireland
Walking on Northern Ireland’s magical Causeway Coast is the way to experience the region without crowds. Ben Lerwill explores the Giant’s Causeway and provides five more compelling reasons to visit – think wild clifftop paths, landscapes straight out of Game of Thrones and Bushmills whiskey…
Dunseverick Castle isn’t much of a fortress these days. What was once a sixth-century royal seat has been reduced to a couple of sorry-looking sections of crumbling coastal masonry, a pair of jagged medieval molars in an otherwise vacated mouth. They stand alone on an enormous grassy sea-stack, connected to the mainland by a low tongue of land.
There are several good reasons to come to this lonely spot. You can dwell on bloodthirsty eras gone by, stare out at the gull-flown swell of the waves – or begin one of the greatest coastal day-walks in the British Isles. From the castle, the clifftop path leads you along the map for five crowd-free miles before depositing you directly at Northern Ireland’s most popular visitor attraction: the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim. Think of the walk as a kind of back-door entrance to a big-name natural attraction.
(A note for the budget-conscious: be aware that you’re not obliged to pay to access the Causeway, even if you’re arriving the standard way – only the car park and visitor centre carry a charge.)
In tourist terms, things have never looked so good for the region’s signature landmark. More than a million people have visited the Giant’s Causeway in the past 12 months alone, with numbers up by almost 35% in just four years. There are now almost as many visitors per fortnight, in fact, as there are interlocking basalt columns that make up the Causeway itself. Forty thousand of these hexagonal oddities jut into the sea in three separate outcrops, making for an impressive sight when seen up close. And if you find their mere presence puzzling, you’re not alone.
The geology’s a head-fry for most people
Giants Causeway
“The geology’s a head-fry for most people,” says Eimear Flanagan, the amiable local guide. She’s a specialist in showing travellers a slower, more secretive side to the County Antrim coastline, not least in the form of the walk from Dunseverick Castle. “Yeah – it’s the cool route to the Causeway,” she smiles, matter-of-factly.
We meet early one morning to make the hike, following the sea cliffs as they snake off to the west. A succession of isolated headlands and steep precipices follow, buffeted by the stiff, salt-scented wind blowing in off the water. The day is brisk but clear – kittiwakes and fulmars ride the air currents, and the view across to Scotland is green and vivid.
Eimear is a fine talker. She veers from legends to politics to religion, as well as the more