The French Alps: summer amongst the peaks
21.07.2023 - 08:08
/ roughguides.com
/ Neil Macquillian
It's difficult to picture the Alps in your mind's eye without a blanket covering of white. But when the snows melt, another side to the region comes alive. Neil McQuillian reports from a verdant and warm Portes du Soleil.
The sun is throbbing. The air is humming. Insects flit in the haze as wisps and dots, and the grass of the steep hill before me is deep, deep green. Now hand me a glass of cider and let the cheese-rolling begin.
Except the steep hill isn't a Gloucestershire cheese-rolling steep hill. This is the French Alps. And come winter, the steep hill is a ski slope.
Summer mountains
I cannot quite grasp it. I mean, I believe Thierry, my host, on whose Morzine terrace I'm standing as he points out the various runs that we can see from here. But, in this height-of-summer heat, it's not easy to compute.
In fact, for the entire time I spend in the Morzine-Les Gets area (Les Gets is a neighbouring village), I don't ever really come to terms with the reality that this balmy, beautiful destination is 'off-season', that most people shun the area when its pastures are abuzz with life – «What's that metal pole thing in the field over there? Like a big robot arm?» I ask of a snow cannon on the morning of my departure. It just. Didn't. Sink. In.
So why am I here when, for many people, visiting the Alps out of season is like going into a nightclub at noon, with the cleaners clattering about and the lights startlingly on?
Well, for the very same reasons that people started coming here for constitutionals centuries ago: it's absolutely gorgeous and the mountain air does you the world of good. Oh, and, this being the off-season, it's actually quite reasonably priced.
Flowers in the mountains
And another thing: as summer in Europe 2018 hits a rolling boil that doesn't look like ending any time soon, Alpine France is relatively cool. Relatively. For climate change is, according to the WWF amongst other authorities, kicking in big time in the Alps.
I asked a number of longtime Morzine-Les Gets residents about this and got the same answer from all of them: climate change is happening. Thierry told me that, officially, the end of the ski season is April 25, but that, «every year the winter is shorter. And you see today, it is red hot.»
So it's a good job that Thierry – a lithe ski instructor and a vision of Alpine health – is also involved in the hospitality business. In a reboot of the old Alpine sanatoria tradition for the modern age, he and his British wife Lindsey offer juice-based detox retreats in the warmer months.
Delicious cuisine
Thierry's grandfather would no doubt have approved of this enterprising spirit. Pascal Rodriguez escaped the Spanish Civil War to come to Morzine, where he first had a butcher's, then a bar,