The joys of winter walking in the Lake District
21.07.2023 - 07:49
/ roughguides.com
Discover winter walking in The Lake District. This World Heritage site offers some of the best hiking in England and it's blissfully quiet in the colder months of the year. Follow Ben Lerwill as he avoids the crowds and braves the elements for four days winter walking in the Lake District. The information in this article is taken from The Rough Guide to England. For practical and inspirational travel information for the Lake District in Cumbria, also check out the the travel guide Rough Guide Staycations: The Lake District.
They do a mighty fine goulash in the Dog & Gun, using a recipe that’s been bringing in hikers for five decades. And it’s the kind of sustenance the body craves after seven cold hours on the fells.
So we spill into the rosy warmth of the little Keswick pub, peeling off damp jackets and stamping the muck off our boots. The windows are fogged with condensation. Two pints are pulled, food ordered, a corner found. We settle. “Yep,” says Daniel, one long swig later. “Tired.”
Winter sun breaking through clouds on a walk in the Lake District, Cumbria
We've travelled up to the Lake District for four days of winter walking. A trip here is always a meteorological lottery, but arriving at the start of the year getting chilly and soaked, is almost a given. Which takes some uncertainty out of the equation.
At the same time, this is also a season that heightens the solitude and bristling drama of the hills. We’re here to beat the summer rush. And when you’re alone on Maiden Moor in January and it’s blowing a gale, you know about it.
We’re starting in the northern fells with a long, looping yomp around the slopes above Derwent Water. The morning is shrouded in low cloud, rendering the islands in the middle of the lake as ethereal outlines.
At the river bridge, there’s a man lobbing a ball into the water for a soggy spaniel. The dog is half-delirious with joy. We veer south and clamber up past the falls of Greenup Sikes.
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Expect perfect peace when winter walking in the Lake District — it is usually without the crowds
My last time in the Lake District was a winter two years ago, when everything had been snow and ice. The temperatures are less fierce now, but the winter skies are still raw and blustery.
Beds of wilting bracken lie across the slopes, coating the hills in a coppery red. We pause to watch a sparrow hawk glide past us: it tilts its wings to gain speed, then disappears over the brow of the rock.
For the next few hours the massed grey