Once a must-visit holiday resort, now the leftovers of a warzone: in its 1960s heyday, Kupari in the former Yugoslavia was prized not just for the outstanding beauty of its beach, but its modernist architecture too.
29.04.2024 - 11:23 / theguardian.com
Once seen, never forgotten. Croatia’s fabulously beautiful coast and islands (1,246 to be precise) – with their rocky coves, iconic beaches, historic towns and gorgeous sunsets, all surrounded by some of the most breathtakingly blue waters imaginable – are places that stay in the mind, and they have a habit of luring you back.
Rovinj in Istria is one of the most instantly recognisable towns on the Croatian coast, its narrow streets and colourful facades climbing upwards to a soaring bell tower, modelled on that of St Mark’s Basilica in Venice. Travel north just a little and you’ll reach Poreč, home to Unesco-listed Byzantine mosaics to rival those in Ravenna or Istanbul – or south to Pula, with its magnificently preserved Roman amphitheatre. For a peaceful oasis set among some of the country’s finest vineyards, head just five miles inland from the sea walls of Novigrad to Brtonigla.
The Kvarner Gulf wraps around the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj, its shores home to the Habsburg grandeur of Opatija, and the bijou foodie enclave of Volosko, its restaurants clustered around a small fishing harbour. Rijeka, a former European capital of culture, is still the great underrated gem of the north, home to intriguing bars and always at the forefront of Croatia’s alternative music scene. It also has one of the best new museums in Croatia, housed in a restored sugar refinery.
For one of the best beaches in the northern Adriatic, look to Vela plaža, the great sweep of sand at Baška on the island of Krk. Lined by beach bars, it’s enclosed between the arms of low, rocky hills – etched with a spidery network of dry-stone walls, with some of the best hiking on the Croatian islands.
When it comes to Croatia’s legendary summer festivals, the two main spots are the clubbing mecca of Zrće beach on the island of Pag, and Tisno, between Zadar and Šibenik. Standouts include the massive Hideout at Zrće, and Hospitality on the Beach in Tisno.
Zadar sits on the central Dalmatian coast, its long waterfront promenade marked by the gently sighing sounds of the Sea Organ, and the flickering lights of the Greeting to the Sun installation – arguably the most outrageously beautiful sunset spot on the Adriatic, overlooking starkly silhouetted islands and water turned to liquid gold. Stroll along Kalelarga, linger over a coffee on the Roman Forum, and dive into narrow, buzzy backstreets packed full of bars. Visit nearby Nin for a further dose of history – Croatia’s medieval kings were crowned here – or if you’re hankering after the great outdoors, Zadar is within easy striking distance of Paklenica and Krka national parks.
The ancient city of Split is both a destination in itself and the gateway to the central Dalmatian islands. At its
Once a must-visit holiday resort, now the leftovers of a warzone: in its 1960s heyday, Kupari in the former Yugoslavia was prized not just for the outstanding beauty of its beach, but its modernist architecture too.
Every year, more than 20 million passengers take a cruise.
Sunday day-trippers to Venice flashing their €5 entry ticket QR code to get through the turnstiles at the city’s main access points look bemused when football supporters simply show their match tickets instead. Attending a sporting event just happens to be one of the exemptions in the opaque regulations behind what locals see as an attempt to turn their town into a living museum.
Europe’s legendary libraries rank among some of the world’s most famous buildings.
Padua, in northern Italy's Veneto region, is the site of one of the world’s greatest art treasures that should be on every art lover’s bucket list. The Scrovegni Chapel houses the extraordinary 14th-century fresco cycle by Giotto that covers all the walls and ceilings. Despite having such a masterpiece and being a lovely small city, filled with history, culture and culinary delights, Padua is far less touristy than other Italian other art cities like Florence, Rome or nearby Venice. It’s a real hidden gem. And, at just 25 miles from Venice and easy to reach from Marco Polo airport, Padua is an easy day trip or addition to a Venice itinerary.
May is such a lovely month for many places around the world: for wildlife watching, optimum weather and arts and culture experiences – so figuring out where to go and what to see can be tricky.
In many ways, the Netherlands is a year-round destination, with each season offering its own charms. Spring sees fields full of tulips in bloom. Summer spells long days at sandy beaches along the coast and on the Wadden Sea islands, and as autumn turns to winter, the darkening chill invites you to embrace the Dutch quality of gezelligheid (conviviality, coziness) at atmospheric cafes. Cycling is a Dutch way of life, while festivals fill the calendar throughout the year.
Looking for the best places to travel in Europe? So is the rest of the world.
With spectacularly diverse landscapes and beautifully unspoilt nature, Croatia offers a wealth of experiences in the great outdoors – from hiking and kayaking, to cycling, climbing and more. So come and take a walk on Croatia’s wild side – or peddle, paddle, swim – and discover just how much outdoor adventure this beautiful Adriatic country has to offer.
How far would you go – and how long would you take – to avoid flying and thoroughly embrace the idea of slow travel? In my case, it was 3,167 miles over three weeks. For nearly a decade I had wanted to do a road trip to Croatia, and to get as much out of the journey as the destination itself. Rather than bomb down the motorway for marathon stretches, the idea was to slow down and see new things.
Croatia’s fabulous mishmash of cultures – from ancient Greeks to Romans, Venetians, Austrians, Hungarians and Italians – has left a rich legacy all around the country. You’ll see it in the Venetian architecture of Rovinj, Korčula, Dubrovnik and Hvar, the Habsburg townhouses of Zagreb and Opatija, and the ancient Roman ruins of Istria and Dalmatia. You’ll taste it in the delicious cuisine where the Adriatic and central Europe meet and mingle.
As a travel writer, one of my greatest loves is experiencing a new country, region, or city with my son. But one place has always been our favorite: London.