Bidding for upgrades decreases the value of elite status for frequent flyers, but it also presents opportunities for non-elites to snag an upgrade on the cheap.
21.07.2023 - 08:11 / roughguides.com / Neil Macquillian
So gloomy they named it goth? Not in the slightest. This town can certainly do black-eyeliner bleak with the best of them – anywhere with docklands can, and Gothenburg has got the largest port in Scandinavia. But Sweden’s second city is actually a ray of sunshine: friendly, funny, multicultural (23 percent of people living here weren't born in the country) and on the thrilling cusp of massive expansion.
Growing too is the tourist throng – in recent years, visitor numbers have increased annually by the hundreds of thousands. So what’s all the fuss about? Neil McQuillian went to find out.
Halt. Did you just arrive by plane? Then you’ve got it all wrong. Gothenburg’s heritage is as much about water as terra firma, so get out there and gaze upon the city from your vessel of choice. That’s how many a historical Gothenburger got here, after all.
You can kayak on the 17th-century moats and canals, doze along them on a sightseeing tour that also enters the harbour, or take a ferry up and down the Göta. Some ferry trips are free, which is a real city hack – the views are immense, especially at sunset, when the dying light plays on the port’s enormous structures, from the Lilla Bommen “Lipstick” building to the Älvsborg bridge and the harbour crane in Eriksberg.
For further nautical fun, also check out the Maritime Museum and Aquarium or Maritiman, the floating-ship museum.
Jetties with sailboats and yachts along Gota Alv River in the harbour of Gothenburg © TasfotoNL/Shutterstock
If you’re a stickler for the “eat local” mantra, then get ready to have a fishy on a little dishy, as the song goes. You can run the full gamut in Gothenburg, from cheap-as-chips to Michelin stars.
In the former camp, the Strömmingsluckan food stand does unbelievable fried mackerel with lingonberries and nutmeggy mash for a pittance. In the city’s Feskekôrka fish market – aka the “fish church” – you can pick up pre-prepared meals such as fish in white wine sauce with peas and potato – microwaved before your very eyes – for about €9. Abundant prawn salads go for the same price.
To really dive deep into the belly of the whale (and your pockets), head to Gothenburg’s most popular fish restaurant (the second favourite, Restaurang Gabriel, is in the Feskekôrka). Michelin-starred Sjömagasinet is set in a gorgeous old wooden building overlooking the river – your dinner might have swum by that morning.
Tina Stafren/Gotenburg & Co
Gothenburg has its fair share of grand 18th- and 19th-century merchants’ houses – testament to the city’s long and profitable legacy of trade – but one of the most appealing neighbourhoods, Haga, was developed for the city’s poorest residents. Associated with Gothenburg’s blue-collar workers, wood-and-brick construction
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