Rio de Janeiro is a great destination any time of the year, but some seasons are better for different types of travelers.
20.10.2023 - 16:17 / nationalgeographic.com / Santa Teresa
Few cities are as naturally spectacular as Rio. Flanked by the Atlantic and Guanabara Bay, backed by jungle-furred peaks and strung together with miles of creamy sand, this is a place of singular beauty. The beachside neighbourhoods are the obvious areas to stay: legendary Copacabana, quieter Leme and trendier Ipanema, the gateway to Rio’s western beaches. Don’t write off inland, though — over the past decade, a new, boutique-style hotel scene has emerged. High above the historic centre, Santa Teresa is Rio’s boho bastion. Directly below is nightlife-central Lapa.
Best for: boho style
When Amy Winehouse picked a hotel for her Rio stay, she passed up the city’s super-luxe beachfront properties for this coffee farm-turned-relaxed retreat in arty Santa Teresa. Sacks of coffee beans sit in the corridors, trees brush against the windows and in the simple bedrooms, cow hides cover the floorboards. In a garden bursting with tropical greenery, you’ll find a pool and a bar terrace overlooking Rio’s historic centre and Guanabara Bay. The hotel spills down the hillside, and one level below is pan-South American restaurant Térèze and the atmospheric Bar dos Descasados. Here, banquettes shelter behind a rustic stone colonnade and guests enjoy live comedy, jazz and Brazilian music. Note that there are no lifts. ROOMS: From R$1,670 (£265), B&B.
Best for: beach
The streets and sands of lovely Leme are in far less demand than those of neighbouring Copacabana, meaning better value when it comes to hotels. This glass tower block, which opened in 2015, is a brilliant midrange choice. Most of its elegant rooms have panoramic images of the Rio landscape spread out behind each bed, as well as peerless views of the real thing. It’s situated at the eastern end of the neighbourhood, which means it’s further from the heart of the beach scene but you’ll have fewer people to share the sand with. And if it ever gets crowded outside, there’s a rooftop pool terrace to retreat to.ROOMS: From R$700 (£110).
Best for: views
Unquestionably the best digs on Copacabana, the Fairmont opened in 2019, turning the former Sofitel — two conjoined beehive-like tower blocks — into a world-class hotel. All 375 rooms have balconies, and even the entry level ‘city view’ categories snatch glimpses of the ocean. Rooms are classic discreet luxury, with polished wood floors, a mid-century feel to the furniture, and a few marine accents in the headboards or armchairs, echoing the view. Breakfast is served poolside, looking across the curve of Copacabana towards Sugarloaf Mountain. In addition to the two pools, there’s a beach club just across the street, where the quietest and cleanest part of Copacabana meets Ipanema. Upgrading to a Fairmont Gold room
Rio de Janeiro is a great destination any time of the year, but some seasons are better for different types of travelers.
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