4 of the best food experiences in Savoy, France

10.11.2023 - 21:29 / nationalgeographic.com / Lake Geneva

Nestled in the southeast corner of France near the Swiss border, the Savoy region has a cuisine that befits its alpine location. Visitors should expect hearty dishes, such as its famous tartiflette, a creamy baked gratin of potatoes, onions, lardons and reblochon cheese; and farcement, a sweet and savoury potato cake that contains both bacon rashers and fruit such a prunes or pears. 

Savoy is also home to several signature desserts, from its beloved blueberry tarts to saint-genix brioche. But away from the mountains, the region’s gastronomy has a lighter side, especially by the shores of Lac Léman, where visitors can dine out on the tender flesh of several varieties of lake fish.

Lac Leman
To the Swiss, as to many, it’s known as Lake Geneva. But here, in the village of Yvoire, on the French side, it’s known as Lac Léman. And, from the rooftop terrace of the restaurant Les Jardins du Léman, I can see it glistening in the mid-distance.

Although I hadn’t realised it when I first sat down, I’m here for fish — because, as it’s soon explained to me, no food-loving visitor to Yvoire should leave without trying at least one of the lake’s three most treasured specimens: fera, omble chevalier and perch.

Right now, it’s time for fera, which arrives sitting in a fragrant, buttery puddle, accompanied by a punchy bowl of thyme risotto. A type of whitefish, it’s quite tender and absorbs the sauce wonderfully, while a cluster of gingerbread croutons give occasional forkfuls some extra pizazz. And, as I work my way through a long-necked bottle of crisp Savoie Crépy, I feel like I’m getting a fix on flavours of the lake.

Everyone who lives near the shores of Lac Léman will have a view on its three prized fish. And, over the course of my stay, I get the feeling opinion is decidedly split. But my guide, Evelyne Hurtaud, is in no doubt as to her favourite. “For me, it’s the omble chevalier,” she says. “You’ve just had fera? Well, the omble is even finer, even more delicate.”

I ask her if the locals know instinctively how to prepare these fish. “Yes,” she says. “Because local people have always buy them directly from the fishermen, so they often cook them at home and know how to do it — usually quite simply: for example, just grilled, with a little sauce made of cream and lemon.”

A type of arctic char, the omble chevalier favours the colder depths of the deeper Alpine lakes. And, in the atmospheric lakeside dining room at Hotel Restaurant Du Port, I get my chance to try it. In keeping with local custom, two whole fish are presented to us in a frying pan. Then, at an adjacent table, the heads are removed, the soft cheek meat is retrieved and the fish are filleted, before being served up with waxy potatoes, vegetables,