The best way to get around Puglia is definitely by renting your own set of wheels, be they four or two. While you can easily navigate major cities with trains and buses, the same is not true when you leave the city.
14.03.2024 - 11:55 / lonelyplanet.com
Storybook beaches, hissing volcanoes and granita in spades: Sicily offers what every kid dreams of.
Mountains of adventures on this swashbuckling island in Italy fire young imaginations and keep all ages busy for days. SSicily'scoastline alone ducks and dives for an extraordinary 1500km (930 miles) around clandestine coves and pirate-esque sea caves, strips of powder-white sand and volcanic-black beach, sun-spangled salt pans and craggy headlands awash with ancient ruins waiting to be explored.
And when mainland Sicily exhausts, boats of all shapes and sizes yo-yo across the water to 15 more go-slow, action-packed islands. The only hitch? Choosing which nugget of paradise to play on.
In a country where bambini (children) are like royalty, families can expect an overwhelmingly warm welcome everywhere they go in Sicily. Such heart-warming hospitality goes a long way in compensating for the lack of facilities those traveling with babies and tots will encounter at some point on their trip.
Even in main cities like Palermo and Catania, nappy-changing facilities in museums and highchairs in restaurants and cafes are rare. Bring your own hook-on table seat for restaurant dining and a portable mat to change diapers (nappies) on a park bench, the beach, wherever necessity requires. On the upside, Sicilians won't bat an eyelid at you baring a baby's bum or breastfeeding in public.
Few trattorias and restaurants offer a dedicated children's menu, but pasta usually features on every primi (first course) menu. Order a mezza porzione (half portion), or ask for pasta al pomodoro (pasta in tomato sauce) or pasta in bianco (pasta with olive oil). Few children will say no to a typical Sicilian cannolo oozing creamy ricotta or a sweet brioche bun dunked in a bowl of mulberry or mint granita.
In towns, cobbled streets, crazy traffic, parked cars blocking badly maintained pavements, and incessant steps and staircases are exhausting – often impossible – to navigate with a pram or pushchair. Don't leave that baby carrier or front sling at home.
On Trenitalia trains, kids under 15 ride for free with an adult. Bus tickets cost the same for everyone, irrespective of age – babies and tots perched on laps don't pay. Reduced fares for Liberty Lines ferries and hydrofoils kick in for children aged 4 to 11 years; three and under are free.
Teen-clad families will love the frenetic buzz of Palermo, where souk-like markets such as Mercato del Ballarò redefine street theater and mafia-themed street art by Sicilian artists makes noise in squares and back alleys. The fact the city is just a one-hour train ride to port-town Trapani, from where hydrofoils zip to the beach-laced Egadi Islands, only heightens the family allure.
Families with younger
The best way to get around Puglia is definitely by renting your own set of wheels, be they four or two. While you can easily navigate major cities with trains and buses, the same is not true when you leave the city.
If you want to holiday in Italy like a true Italian, then head down to Puglia.
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