This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Kate Boardman , a 36-year-old former teacher and current content creator from Massachusetts who has lived and traveled all over the world. The following has been edited for length and clarity.
02.04.2024 - 11:27 / theguardian.com
There’s a party atmosphere round the lighthouse on Chanonry Point near Inverness, the UK’s best place to see dolphins from land. It’s an hour after low tide and there are pipers, picnics and kids running barefoot over long, evening sands. Already in late spring, the sun barely seems to set in the Highlands. The kelp-strewn pebbles are glowing as I walk from the bus stop near Fortrose cathedral (bus 26/26A from Inverness) along one side of the promontory. The dolphins don’t show up. But, somehow, it’s fine – the first of many reasons to return. It’s still light as I walk back along the beach for a 9pm bus, past wild lupins and views of Fort George and pink clouds over the Moray Firth. I’m in Inverness at the start of a week exploring Scotland’s wild north coast by train and bus.
The North Coast 500 is a victim of its own success. Devised in 2015, in the style of America’s Route 66, this 516-mile circular road trip round northern Scotland draws thousands of drivers and motor homers every year to narrow roads with bottleneck passing places. Locals complain that the route’s popularity has driven up house prices and talk in terms of pre- and post-NC500. A few cyclists cover all or part of the route by bike. I’m exploring some of it by public transport and on foot. It takes a bit of planning. I’m used to the mild frustration of missing an hourly bus; missing a weekly one is another matter. But first, there’s an epic railway journey to enjoy.
The Far North Line winds past coast and woodland, moor and mountain on its four-hour journey from Inverness up to Thurso (advance tickets £16 each way, scotrail.co.uk). One end of Cromarty Firth, one of three huge estuaries, is all reedbeds, waterbirds and hares in the long grass. The far end is studded with disused oil rigs, towed here when they’re not needed in the North Sea. Across the wide blue of Dornoch Firth, I can just make out Skibo Castle, a huge baronial mansion that was the Scottish home of steel tycoon Andrew Carnegie. Later, there’s a half-timbered station house and a glimpse of turrets above the trees as we pass Dunrobin Castle. The railway runs beside the sea between Brora and Helmsdale, past miles of deserted sand and rocks bristling with cormorants.
In the middle of blanket-bogged Flow Country, we stop at Forsinard, where the old station house is an RSPB visitor centre and a surfaced trail leads through bird-rich lochans. Some kids on the path wave cheerfully at the train and a deer runs past the window. Broch, broch, hut circle, cairn insists the map in gothic lettering. I can usually see only the more recently ruined circular sheepfolds, but it’s clear this is a huge and ancient landscape. There are intricately carved Pictish stones and Viking shield
This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Kate Boardman , a 36-year-old former teacher and current content creator from Massachusetts who has lived and traveled all over the world. The following has been edited for length and clarity.
Amsterdam has desperately been trying to shake off its ‘party capital’ image - with limited success.
When mom travels, she is stepping out with her best foot forward. Sans Matin, The Office of Angela Scott, Naot, Cariuma and Sorel are just a handful of chic sneaker brands with expertly baked-in comfort to complete mom’s travel essentials this Mother’s Day. Here are the most stylish sneakers to buy moms who enjoy a good walking tour this Mother’s Day:
It’s a relief to lay my rucksack down, plunge hot feet into the cool stream and pause to revel in the fairytale surrounds. Foxgloves stand tall against a cornflower-blue sky, ferns look almost luminous, the water glints in the early summer sunshine. A patch of moss-covered ancient forest provides shade, a cuckoo calls in the distance, mountains layer on the horizon.
A beach is to a vacation is as ice cream is to apple pie: essential. We dream of beaches in Europe and we imagine that feeling of flaxen sand between our toes, the sounds of sea waves crashing on the shoreline, and the updrafts of salty ocean breeze. The small snag is, everyone else gets the same idea, and during peak seasons, carving out a spot on the shore to set out our picnic or recline with our beach read can feel like an impossible feat of engineering.
If your sights are set on a trip to Europe, be travel ready with these helpful tips from ALG Vacations.
Few things beat the sense of freedom of the open road. Whether it’s an epic motorcycle ride along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way or a leisurely pootle around the Italian lakes by car, a road trip is a brilliant way to explore a country at your own pace, enjoying varied scenery and discovering less-known spots en route. We’d love to hear about your favourite journeys in Europe – where did you go and what made it so special? The best tip will win a holiday voucher.
The sequence M77, M74, M73, M80, A9, M90, A90 may not sound freighted with emotional weight, but those roads are, for me, associated with the sadness of separation and the pleasure of reunion. It’s the route I drive between our home in Glasgow and Dundee, where our eldest boy now lives, having left for university.
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As the holy month of Ramadan draws to a close, JA Resorts & Hotels extends warm wishes to all observing this sacred time. As we await the joyous occasion of Eid Al Fitr, we are thrilled to announce a host of celebratory offerings across our properties, spanning from the vibrant city of Dubai to the serene mountains of Hatta. Dubai’s largest experience resort, the iconic JA The Resort, invites guests to celebrate this auspicious occasion surrounded by luxury and comfort. Meanwhile, nestled amidst the beauty of the Al Hajjar mountains, JA Hatta Fort Hotel offers a tranquil retreat for families seeking a unique Eid getaway.
For English-speakers, Romanian is easier to learn than German. And you’ll be speaking Swahili sooner than Polish.
There are more than 500 national parks in Europe covering an astounding variety of terrain, from the wild taiga of northern Finland to the coastal dunes and wetlands of the Doñana national park in southern Spain. These protected landscapes offer pristine scenery and endless opportunities for activity and adventure. We’d love to hear about your favourite national park discoveries on the continent, whether it’s a hiking trail through a remote mountain range, a perfect spot for wild camping or an unforgettable wildlife encounter.