We revel in the remoteness: wild camping and hiking in the Scottish Highlands
17.04.2024 - 13:09
/ theguardian.com
It’s a relief to lay my rucksack down, plunge hot feet into the cool stream and pause to revel in the fairytale surrounds. Foxgloves stand tall against a cornflower-blue sky, ferns look almost luminous, the water glints in the early summer sunshine. A patch of moss-covered ancient forest provides shade, a cuckoo calls in the distance, mountains layer on the horizon.
I’m in Knoydart in the Highlands of western Scotland, one of the last great wildernesses in the UK, on a hiking and wild camping adventure. No roads cross the 22,000-hectare (55,000-acres) peninsula, a rugged place where a trio of Munros soar skyward, sandwiched between sea lochs Nevis and Hourn (poetically translated as heaven and hell). Over five days our group of eight will explore this land on foot, carrying our sustenance and shelter on our backs, led by two guides from The Living Project, Josh and Emily.
The rest of the world feels very far away as we linger over lunch before continuing to Barrisdale Bay farther north. Today’s hike is about eight miles over undulating terrain. An old drover’s way leads up past a loch where Highland cattle drink and we climb a 450-metre pass before descending to the coast once more. We take our time, stopping often, sometimes chatting, sometimes walking in silence. The going gets tough at points, packs feel heavy, but a sense of freedom, a revelling in the remoteness, trumps any fatigue.
Set up in 2019 by Josh Bulpin and Cormac Davey (former colleagues at World Challenge Expeditions), the Living Project offers “mindful adventures in wild places,” with trips ranging from women-only weekends in Snowdonia to weeks in Nepal. The emphasis is on connecting to nature, not epic feats of endurance, with yoga, meditation and journal writing woven into our days.
“We combine adventure and wellbeing, giving people the chance to challenge themselves, but focus very much on the journey and moving slowly through the landscape,” says Josh. “It’s not about racing up summits.”
Our trip began two days earlier in Fort William, where we’re encouraged to ditch any excess luggage. Most equipment, from tents to cooking utensils, as well as food (fresh and dried) is provided. While you don’t need experience, with packs weighing upwards of 15kg and several hours walking a day on the itinerary, a decent level of fitness is advised. Our group consists of four guys celebrating a 40th birthday, and three women and a man, ranging from mid-30s to early 60s, travelling solo. For many of us, it’s a first multi-day hike.
Wild camping is permitted in Scotland and you could, of course, do this independently. But having everything taken care of, and knowing you’re in safe hands, makes it easy to focus on the simple challenges of hiking and