A first-time guide to Kerala, India

01.10.2024 - 11:13 / lonelyplanet.com

Sep 30, 2024 • 9 min read

Electric-green palms stretching above glinting backwaters that empty into rippling lakes. Honey-colored beaches washed by the tropical surf dotted along an almost 600km(370-mile)-long coastline. Fragrant coconut-laced stews mopped up with fluffy appam (rice-flour pancakes). 

This is just a taste of what awaits discovery on a trip around India’s magical, laid-back southwesternmost state. 

Kerala is defined by its vast network of canals, lakes and rivers, which together make up those fabled backwaters. All along the coast, relaxed beach towns deliver palm-fringed sands, seafood shacks and ayurveda centers, while inland waterways thread past spice-growing farms and palm trees heavy with cococuts. Heading into the cooler hills, the mist-wrapped mountainscapes of the richly biodiverse, UNESCO-protected Western Ghats stop everyone in their tracks.

Then there’s Kerala’s rich arts scene, from centuries-old Kathakali dance-drama to a flourishing wave of contemporary art in evocative Kochi (Cochin). Like most of India’s other southern states, Kerala has its own official language, Malayalam, along with a packed calendar of colorful regional festivals. 

I’ve been spending time in Kerala regularly for over a decade (often on Lonely Planet assignments), and have explored all the way from the beaches of southern Kovalam and northern Kasaragod to the jade-green tea gardens of the lofty Western Ghats.

Tempted yet? Here’s how to get started. 

Kerala’s main tourism season is November to April, when the weather is tropically pleasant all along the coast, with highs of around 31°C (88°F) in Kochi. Things feel busiest (and priciest) during the peak months of December to February, when it pays to book well ahead for accommodation, trains and houseboats. There’s also an array of wonderful cultural events around this time, including the vibrant Kochi–Muziris Biennale and the International Film Festival of Kerala, held in the state capital of Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum). 

The Western Ghats make for a cool retreat any time of year, especially around tea-growing Munnar, which sits at an elevation of 1500m (4921ft), with daytime temperatures only climbing to the mid-20s°C (70s°F) during high season. 

The July and August monsoon months have long been the traditional time for ayurveda in Kerala, though many centers offer retreats and therapies year-round. If you’re here in August/September, you’ll catch the fabulous festivities for Onam – with traditional arts on show and onam sadhya feasts served on banana leaves – and the famous snakeboat races in Alappuzha (Alleppey) (expect things to be busy around both events). It’s worth keeping in mind that landslides and flooding have occurred during rainy months in