A first-time guide to Martinique

07.10.2024 - 15:29 / lonelyplanet.com

Oct 6, 2024 • 6 min read

Mix French charm with West Indian joie de vivre, and you get Martinique, a delightful island in the Lesser Antilles. 

Here, rugged volcanic landscapes give way to lush rainforests, soaring peaks and postcard-perfect beaches, with the towering Mont Pelée volcano as a powerful symbol of nature’s might. 

From sipping a ti’ punch to diving into Fort-de-France’s bustling markets, first-time visitors will be met with an island steeped in a rich mélange of African, French and West Indian culture, layered history and limitless adventure.

The beauty of travel to the Caribbean is that you can go at almost any time of year.

Martinique’s dry season runs from December to about mid-April, bringing warm, sunny weather and calm waters ideal for swimming and snorkeling.

These pleasant conditions coincide with peak season, so you’ll find many other visitors seeking to escape colder climates – and driving up hotel prices accordingly.

The wet season starts in June and lasts until November. During this period, there’s a higher likelihood of occasional showers, but you’ll reap better rates and availability as fewer tourists arrive. I

t’s also the best time to visit Martinique’s botanical gardens, as they’re extra-lush, with intense pops of green and flowers in full bloom.   

Traveling from mid-February to early March? You’re in for a treat. Martinique hosts a traditional carnival that departs from the famously sequined revelry of Rio de Janeiro or Trinidad & Tobago. 

Martinique’s “vaval” is infused with a spirit of resistance that dates to the festival’s earliest days. Traditions include the nèg gwo siwo, in which participants represent escaped slaves by covering themselves in molasses and charcoal; the Samedi Gras carnival-queens parade; clay men; the grotesque red devils; and – my personal favorite – the vidé pyjama, essentially J’ouvert in sleepwear. 

Martinique caters to both thrill seekers as for those craving a tranquil and relaxed getaway. While you could reasonably get a satisfying taste of the island’s magic in three to four days, plan on at least a week-long stay for unhurried exploration. 

Visitors flying in from France, Montréal or Miami will enjoy direct service into Martinique Aimé Césaire International Airport. The airport is only 15 minutes from the capital, and a 40-minute drive from Les Trois-Îlets, a popular beach town.

Alternatively,  the Express des Îles operates a ferry service to the island several times a week from neighboring Dominica, Guadeloupe and St Lucia. 

Martinique’s Transport en Commun en Site Propre (TCSP) is a modern bus service that serves the Fort-de-France and Le Lamentin areas. Other large buses (or grands busses) connect the island – but locals rely mostly on minivans