A local’s guide to Reykjavík, Iceland: the best bars, cafes, beaches and geothermal pools

10.08.2023 - 20:27 / theguardian.com

When downtown rents dropped because of the pandemic, lots of ambitious shops, cafes and restaurants ended up launching as a result. There’s a real sense of revitalisation in the city.

A vegan cafe called Plantan recently opened near my favourite swimming pool; their soups, sandwiches and baked goods are really good – especially after a dip. Another favourite spot is Kaffi Ó-le. The manager, Tom, makes the best coffee in town, and the best matcha lattes.

In 2020, my childhood friends Númi, Atli and Aðalsteinn opened a little restaurant called Hosiló. There are always three main course options – fish, meat, vegan. I’ve had some amazing seafood and gnocchi there. Everything’s handmade and it’s not too pricey. It’s a small place so best to book a table in advance.

Marshall House is a cultural centre in a former fish factory near the old harbour. There are two galleries under one roof: artist-run Kling & Bang hosts exhibitions by young artists from the underground scene as well as bigger, more established names.

Nýló, the Living Art Museum, is another grassroots institution showcasing contemporary works. It’s really fun to go for Italian food and drinks at La Primavera on the ground floor of the building, then head upstairs to experience the inspiring art. Entry to both galleries is free.

Also, Mengi is an amazing venue that hosts art events and concerts and everything in-between, so it’s worth checking to see what’s on when you’re in town.

Running up the narrow, cobbled streets of Grjótaþorp (Rock Village) are these beautiful old houses in one of the oldest areas in the city. At the corner of Fischersund and Mjóstræti, stands the small red Gröndal’s House, where artist and naturalist Benedikt Gröndal lived until his death in 1907.

It is now a cultural house and artists’ residency with regular events advertised on the Reykjavik Unesco City of Literature website.

The local swimming pools are a lifeline for us Icelanders – it’s where we all go to catch up in the hot tubs. The lovely Sundhöllinn is the oldest indoor pool in Reykjavík, designed by the Guðjón Samúelsson. Another good option is Vesturbæjarlaug, a pretty 20-minute walk from Tjörnin lake.

Nauthólsvik beach is also a nice spot to visit. The sea water is geothermally heated with temperatures reaching 15-19C in summer. People swim in the human-made lagoon then enjoy the hot tubs and sand and steam-baths. Some locals swim here in winter, too.

As for green space, at Heiðmörk, about 15 minutes’ drive beyond Reykjavík, there’s a forest, a beautiful lake and lots of trails to explore among the lava formations.

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