A local writer answers frequently asked questions about New Orleans

22.08.2024 - 07:53 / lonelyplanet.com

Aug 21, 2024 • 6 min read

I've been writing for Lonely Planet since 2007(!) and in my tenure have contributed to over 100 guidebooks spanning three continents. But while on assignment in 2009, while in New Orleans researching the guidebook for the first time, I fell in love with the city at a point in my life when I was searching for a home. In relatively short order I moved here and began a family; my daughter, New Orleans born and raised, just turned 10.

Yes. Probably.

OK, I love Mardi Gras. It is the most wonderful time of the year. Many tourists want to avoid it because they think Mardi Gras is all public alcohol consumption and breast flashing, and it is not. That sort of raging id behavior is largely confined to the French Quarter; flash someone on the St Charles Ave parade route and there’s a very good chance you’ll get yelled at by some angry parents.

That’s because Mardi Gras is, by and large, a family holiday. The history of carnival is long and there are countless variations on how to celebrate Mardi Gras, but for most New Orleanians, the holiday is about watching large parades snake down St Charles Avenue, listening to high school marching bands, and catching "throws" from big floats. All of the above activities are done with kids in mind and tow.

Carnival season is about 2.5 weeks long, packed with parades and gatherings, including Chewbacchus, a conglomeration of DIY costuming, homemade float crafting and nerd culture love with approximately zero “show your ***s” vibe. 

On actual Mardi Gras day, you may run into the St Anne’s parade, a riot of homegrown costuming that's a consistent feast for the senses. These individual expressions of art and creativity are, for us, what truly makes Mardi Gras day special. With all of that said, public drunkenness is real, as are crowds. It is legitimately tough to avoid people on Mardi Gras day, so if you’re deeply introverted, you may wanna skip Fat Tuesday.

The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival is the biggest music event in the New Orleans calendar, which either makes it something you can’t miss, or something you’d do well to avoid.

Jazz Fest attracts a A-list dinosaur acts (Springsteen, the Rolling Stones, etc) and a ton of New Orleans artists. It also attracts crowds. If big music festivals are your thing, go for it. If they aren't, but you still love local New Orleans music, here’s a secret: you can see great NOLA music anytime of year. Sure, the weather is great during Jazz Fest (the last weekend of April and first weekend of May), and the talent is sort of concentrated, but a little research on the WWOZ Livewire, or heck, just a stroll up Frenchmen St during the evening, is also a good way of finding great local music during any given month.

If you