While I was born and bred here in New Zealand – or Aotearoa, the country's Māori-language name – I’ve spent enough years away to understand how it’s a destination that can feel comfortingly familiar and completely strange to visitors all at once.
A New Wave of Modernism Crests in the Fabulously Old-School French Riviera
27.09.2023 - 16:47 / cntraveler.com / Belle Epoque / Grace Kelly / Monte Carlo / Jean Georges Vongerichten / New Wave / Art
The French Riviera is often defined by what made it famous in the first place: Historic grande dame hotels, spectacular scenery, visions of jet setters basking in champagne-soaked glamour, and cruising the coast in vintage convertibles a la Grace Kelly. These scenes remain beyond Slim Aarons’ iconic photography, and each summer, a parade of well-heeled travelers arrive, toting the latest bags from Chanel and Dior.
But the region has evolved past its 20th Century hallmarks, and over recent years, there has been an influx of lively, modern establishments, and a wave of creativity that is reviving everything from the culinary scene to the art world. Even the oldest, most iconic hotels have been revamped with contemporary décor, innovative restaurants, and amenities tailored to the jet set of today (Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Cheval Blanc, and Château de la Messardière are the most exceptional examples).
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A view from the Pool Suite at Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel—an excellent family-friendly hotel that offers ultra-luxe picnic excursions and plant-based food at Le Cap restaurant.
France’s version of Silicon Valley, Sophia Antipolis, is located nearby (just 20 minutes inland from Antibes), and like other global tech hubs has attracted a new generation of professionals and affluence (as of today, it’s the site of 2,500 companies, with employees of 80 different nationalities).
Beyond the demographic shift, a new aesthetic era is underway. Contrasting the region’s classic Belle Époque architecture—which lines the promenades in a rainbow of pastel shades from Monte Carlo to Saint-Tropez—there are dazzling examples of modernist design. The most striking destinations can be found at opposite ends of the coast: The Maybourne Riviera in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, unveiled in 2020, and La Reserve, high in the hills of Ramatuelle.
The Maybourne is an architectural masterpiece that has transformed what was once a bohemian artists’ enclave into a buzzy, luxury playground. You can spot the futuristic floor-to-ceiling glass structure towering 1,000 feet above the sea on the edge of a cliff from a mile away. Inside, it’s reminiscent of an urban art gallery, with contemporary sculptures suspended in the lobby and a coterie of high-profile collaborators from Bryan O’Sullivan to Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
La Reserve is comparable in style, with sleek design framing knockout ocean views—but with the vibe of a high-end wellness retreat, where degustation dinners can be plant-based, and guests can embark on full resets with
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