Editor’s Note: CNN Original Series “Eva Longoria: Searching for Mexico” airs on CNN Sundays at 9 p.m. ET/PT. Sign up to CNN Travel’s four-part Unlocking Mexico newsletter for more on the country and its cuisine.
Two simple words can spark mouth-watering bliss or a series of blistering retorts in Texans: Breakfast tacos.
In the Lone Star State, who gets the credit for these morning tortilla sensations can be a matter of habañero-hot debate.
A highly contested Eater article in 2016 helped start a full-on Breakfast Taco War between Austin and San Antonio. While that particular battle eventually settled down, flare-ups continue.
But to get a true picture of this simple food with a complex history, we must go beyond Texas and first look atanother place: Mexico.
The breakfast taco is actually part of a long parade of foods (pizza, for instance) whose fuzzy origins and various claims of authenticity spark ferocious debate.
There’s one thing we know for darn sure: Today, breakfast tacos are enjoyed on both sides of the Rio Grande River. In her CNN “Searching for Mexico” series, actor Eva Longoria traveled to Monterrey in the state of Nuevo León.
The breakfast taco may be the simplest of street food, but it’s been been hitting the spot for the workers of Monterrey for nearly a century.
Eva Longoria in 'Searching for Mexico'
There, she enjoyed a breakfast taco with Mexican food bloggers Gerardo Alvarado and Ernesto Esquivel at Tacos Doña Mary La Gritona, which has been serving central Monterrey for nearly 20 years.
“The breakfast taco may be the simplest of street food, but it’s been been hitting the spot for the workers of Monterrey for nearly a century,” narrates Longoria.
CNN Travel caught up with Esquivel – born and raised in the border state of Sonora and resident of Monterrey for more than 10 years – to find out more.
“When I arrived in Monterrey, I discovered all the different types of tacos that everyone eats in the morning. You can have a taco of eggs. You can have a taco of meat. You can have a taco of potatoes.”
Esquivel describes breakfast tacos as “a really fast food, but not a junkie food.”
Esquivel said you can find breakfast tacos in other states in northern Mexico, but Monterrey and the state of Nuevo León are the culinary epicenter with more places to get them and a larger selection of fillings.
Some of the city’s favorites are the machacado (dried beef) with eggs, the barbacoa (slow-cooked meat, often in a pit) and the deshebrada (shredded beef). In other words, you’re in meat country.
Esquivel said the breakfast taco goes back to the early 1900s and perhaps even earlier in Monterrey.
Compañia Fundidora, a former iron and steel foundry that dates to 1900 but
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