An unforgettable day in Kigali, Rwanda

30.11.2023 - 23:55 / lonelyplanet.com / Art

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Rwanda is often called the ‘Land of a Thousand Hills’ and anyone who’s been to its capital, Kigali, will understand why. The rolling landscape is an unmissable characteristic of the city, responsible for the incredible views you can find almost anywhere. Come nightfall, it’s where the starry sky blends into the speckled lights of homes, offices and buildings that make up the city’s skyline. There’s plenty to do and see in these Kigali hills – here are the things you’ll never forget:

The 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi is one of the most tragic and significant moments in Rwandan history. In the span of 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered. The Kigali Genocide Memorial honors the estimated 250,000 people buried here in mass graves and has an excellent exhibition that tries to explain how it was that the world watched as the atrocities unfolded. 

To enjoy the staunch security, pristine streets, and vibrant nightlife of Kigali today without understanding the wider context of the land’s history is doing yourself a disservice, and it’s appropriate to spend the first part of your day in reflection. This intensely powerful and moving memorial is the perfect place to come to terms with Rwanda’s devastating history and the history of genocidal violence around the world.

Plan to spend a couple of hours here, both to gain insight into the events 30 years ago, and to commemorate the lives lost in these remarkably moving exhibitions.

When it’s time for lunch, you’ll be spoiled for options. Over the past 10 years, Kigali’s culinary landscape has seen something of a renaissance with new restaurants, cafes and bars popping up all over the city. With the opening of Rwanda’s visa protocols (pretty much any country can obtain a visa on arrival) came a rush of people who decided to make it their home, bringing with them a world of delicious cuisine.

Kigali has also seen a return of many former diaspora – like Nathalie and John, the owners of Poivre Noir, a popular Belgian-style bistro with a fusion flair. It’s located in Kimihurura, a residential neighborhood becoming well-known for its popular eateries and cafes. Among them, Repub Lounge specializes in East African food; Indabo is known for its healthier bowls and snacks (and has an adorable dog-park attached!); Borneo Indonesian features spicy favorites like beef rendang and gadogado; and Patisserie Royale is a popular cafe and cake bakery.

Any of these would be great for a tasty sit-down lunch, but they’re just the tip of the iceberg – there are plenty of great spots for more Rwandan delicacies (as well as Middle Eastern, Italian, Asian and more) within the span of about five parallel and very walkable roads.

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