Awakening the Senses—and Finding Confidence—at the Euphoria Retreat in Greece

21.02.2024 - 19:03 / cntraveler.com

On a bright November afternoon at Euphoria Retreat on the Peloponnese peninsula, I find myself curled in the fetal position, my body supported by the cool wood floor. It's my first time trying somatic meditation, a practice that redirects one's attention away from the chatter of the mind and toward bodily sensations. Guiding me is Mary Vandourou, a spiritual instructor whose passionate demeanor belies her petite stature. She invites me to imagine the sensation of weightlessness. “We are born into water,” she says. “This is the beginning of our journey.”

I rise slowly, rolling my neck, stretching my arms and legs, wiggling my fingers and toes. Eyes closed, I focus on Vandourou's feathery voice as she enumerates the qualities of the water-leader archetype. “She's always in the flow and uses the flow to benefit her cause.” But that's the challenge; going with the flow has never come easily to me.

This had become clear over the last year. After a recent promotion, I grappled with insecurities about my leadership style, questioning whether I was navigating the daily dichotomies of the workplace—offering support while fostering independence, maintaining structure while encouraging evolution—the “right” way. [Editor's note: The author works at Condé Nast, the company that owns Condé Nast Traveler.] Factor in my chronic need for approval, and I can wind up in a spiral of overthinking. Did I convey that gently enough? Was I also firm and direct?

Euphoria’s immersive Sphere Pool

Seeking the tools and space to recalibrate, I turned to Euphoria, a spa resort focused on holistic healing. Its location, tucked away in the ancient town of Mystras, was highly intentional, says founder Marina Effaimoglou, who, along with Vandourou, leads a retreat focused on women's leadership and empowerment. The forest surrounding Euphoria ascends toward the mythical Mount Taygetus. Once upon a time, women harnessed its energy for healing—an enchanting detail that captures the magic woven into the Euphoria experience.

The fragrance of a lush orange grove welcomes me upon arrival. I'm delighted to discover that my room, adorned with rich Byzantine-inspired tapestries, has a panoramic view overlooking Sparta. After settling in, I make my way to the restaurant, where I get to know the women—an environmentalist, a marketer, an NGO founder—I would be spending the next four days with. After a “drama therapy” icebreaker that involves improvising scenes from Antigone, we bond quickly.

Our time is spent largely within the resort, an architectural marvel with a spiral staircase, monastic arches, a hammam, and a pool with spherical stone walls. But the real work takes place in the yoga room on the third floor. It was there, nestled into plush