Bordeaux to the Pyrenees by train, bike and hiking trail (no car required)
19.07.2023 - 12:05
/ lonelyplanet.com
Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus or bike – with tips on how to reach your no-fly destination, and what to see and do along the way. Here, Christopher GJ Cooley explains how going hiking in the Pyrenees is possible by arriving on bicycle and high-altitude train.
From my home in Bordeaux, the towering peaks, glacial lakes and craggy glacial cirques of the nearby Pyrenees have tempted me for some time. The solitude visitors find in this mountain region – close enough as the crow flies – is testament to how hard it is to reach.
But it’s not impossible. So I set out to visit these beautiful peaks for a weekend, through a combination of cycling and hiking — with the assistance of a few strategically located trains. This was my first solo “bike ’n’ hike.” Here’s how I did it.
I roll my bike onto a quiet carriage, a hiking backpack protruding absurdly from one of its pannier bags. Destination? Pau, known as the “Gateway to the Pyrenees” thanks to its multiple rail connections. I attach my bike with the elastic strap and nab a window seat. We depart slowly through Bordeaux’s rusty rail yard, passing ancient freighters. I sit back with a good book and settle in for the two-hour journey south. Outside the window, countless dark pines formed the vast, flat forests of the Landes.
After disembarking from the train, I get on the bike path leading south from Pau and pass a hedge trimmer, getting hit with the intense smell of freshly cut grass and wild mint: a small but memorable experience you’d never get in a car. I soon reach the unmissable winery Cave de Jurançon at Gan – and the chance to sample the local sweet white wine. As the sun emerges, I head off on the small roads
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