I spent the first seven years of my life in the United Kingdom and still have some British terms and phrases in my vocabulary.
20.07.2023 - 13:21 / wanderlust.co.uk
The changeable autumn light showed off the luminous beauty of St Ives. Even when it was cloudy there was a soft focus glow across the whitewashed cottages of the town, and the sands and waves would shimmer, regardless at which of the several beaches you were looking over. Then, when the sun broke through, it was like being in the Mediterranean, the sea would turn cerulean blue, and you knew why so many artists have based themselves here over the years.
More prosaically, the gulls were no surprise as they strutted around the harbour’s benches scavenging for chips and ice cream cones. But then a cute wader, the type of bird you see in the shallows, came bobbing along, seemingly combing the tourist detritus too. A quick Google revealed it was a turnstone, and that St Ives is known for its population around the harbour.
It was probably revelling in the unexpected bonus of a glut of visitors. “Everyone is saying that they’ve never known such a busy October!” said the vicar of St Senara’s Church in nearby Zennor. With lockdown lifted, Cornwall had seen a steady stream of visitors well into autumn, much to the relief of businesses that depended on tourism.
Fortunately St Ives was able to absorb the extra visitors, even with social distancing in action. It was busy but not crazy-summer-busy. The narrow maze of streets and former fisherman’s cottages, now mostly holiday lets, absorbed the incomers. The independent shops were ticking over nicely, and while the more popular restaurants were fully booked for evening meals, there were enough options to not go hungry.
I was staying in a dog-friendly apartment belonging to Sail Lofts, perfectly positioned just a stones throw from glorious Porthmeor Beach. Each of the beaches has its own personality, so there was ample space for exhilarating windswept walks with my dog, and on a walk on the moors just outside town there was no other soul in sight. Within a few hours I felt recharged.
Forget those few weeks of high summer when the world seems to descend on this honeypot. Out of season is the time to revel in its charms.
“When low tide allows there is something quite special about walking the length of all of St Ives’ beaches while barely leaving the sand.
"Start at Porthmeor Beach, hop over to Porthgwidden then stroll around the headland towards the harbour along the back of Smeaton’s Pier, before heading toward your final destination, Porthminster Beach.”
- Elizabeth Davies, Sail Lofts
Start with a spot of modern art, much of it local, at Tate St Ives, then enjoy a coffee overlooking Porthmeor Beach. A steep walk takes you to the atmospheric Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden – you can buy a combined ticket.
If art isn’t your thing then learn to surf.
I spent the first seven years of my life in the United Kingdom and still have some British terms and phrases in my vocabulary.
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