British break: A road-trip guide to historic Herefordshire

31.07.2023 - 15:05 / wanderlust.co.uk / Art

As I bowled along the roads linking Herefordshire’s ‘Black and White Villages’ (named in honour of their two-tone buildings), I believed, for a second, in time travel. Here, in one of England’s least populated counties, little appeared to have changed for decades, centuries even.

The landscape of wooded hills, shot through with sparkling rivers, has not been scarred by industry or development. Farming is the thing here, and although mechanisation has changed the means of production, apple orchards still burst into blossom in spring, hops are still cut from their strings in autumn and Hereford cattle still munch the grass.

Time was further suspended in the Black and White Villages. Located in the north-west of the county, lying along the tree-lined Arrow and Lugg river valleys, these timbered and half-timbered settlements remain virtually unaltered since they were built in the 15th and 16th centuries. Until relatively recently, rural poverty meant that they were repaired rather than rebuilt or extended, leaving the integrity of the originals intact. The only difference is that the oak beams wouldn’t have been stained black: that became the fashion in Victorian times.

To help explore this heritage, Visit Herefordshire has devised several trails. I chose to drive the 68km motoring trail (with electric car charging points along the way), which is ideal for a weekend break, though there are also bus and cycling routes, too.

My drive started at the market town of Leominster, which has its fair share black-and-white buildings, then meandered along to Dilwyn, Weobley, Eardisley and Pembridge before ending up at what is regarded as the prettiest of the lot: Eardisland.

The roads between villages were quiet – it was tempting to toot the horn like Mr Toad and give tractor drivers a cheery wave. Road signs advertised grass seed, poultry and fodder. Although the villages are united by a shared architectural vernacular, they each have a particular character. Arriving at the next one on the trail was like discovering a different forgotten world, albeit one with contemporary benefits like gastropubs, art galleries and cosy lodgings. Time slipped past most agreeably; it really was possible to forget you were in the 21st century.

Leominster’s timbered buildings, including the former market house Grange Court, are a taste of what’s to come. The town is also the place to pick up a vintage bargain – it teems with antique shops – or buy local art and crafts at the Oxenham Art Gallery. Make time to visit the Norman Leominster Priory, too – the ducking stool alone is worth a detour. With the city behind you, the road then spools out towards Dilwyn, a quiet backwater (its name is