I moved to Ireland when I was 15 due to my father's temporary assignment abroad with an insurance company. It was my mom, my dad, and me.
19.10.2023 - 16:07 / theguardian.com
The Rock of Cashel, a medieval stronghold that once served as the seat of Ireland’s kings, is undeniably magnificent. Perched high on an outcrop overlooking lush Tipperary farmland, its round towers, high crosses and 13th-century Gothic cathedral attract a steady stream of visitors. But it’s not the only Irish castle or abbey to draw large crowds. Even off season, there are long queues for internationally recognised sites such as Bunratty, Clonmacnoise, Glendalough, Dunluce, Blarney and Kylemore. Unesco-designated world heritage site Skellig Michael (famous as Luke Skywalker’s island sanctuary in Star Wars) has limited access, and other ancient buildings have been made into five-star hotels.
But this is a country where a castle or abbey can appear around almost every windswept corner, so there are thousands of off-the-radar places to visit. These sites have equally impressive architecture, and possibly even more intriguing backstories, but a noticeable absence of tour buses and crowds because they haven’t featured on the big or small screen – yet. In most cases, you’ll share the space with just a handful of Hibernophiles. With that in mind, we’ve selected eight of the best lesser-known abbeys and castles in Ireland dating from the seventh to the 19th centuries.
Grianán of Aileach , Inishowen , Co Donegal, circa 800
This 23-metre wide, five-metre-high hill fort was, for a period, the stronghold of the Ó Néills, one of Ireland’s most powerful dynasties until the end of the Gaelic order and Brehon Law in 1603. The circular fortress is one of the finest examples of pre-Norman architecture in the country, with 4½-metre-thick dry-stone walls. An entrance passage leads to an arena with tiered stone steps along the perimeter that climb to a series of terraces. Even by today’s standards the building is impressive. Its hilltop location 250 metres above sea level means epic views over hills, valleys and both Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle – where Viking fleets entered the Inishowen peninsula in search of trouble, only to be stripped of their gold by local warriors. The site dates back to much earlier inhabitation more than 3,000 years ago. A holy well behind the fortress is named after Saint Patrick – in the fifth century he reputedly baptised Owen (Eoghan– a local prince who lent his name to the Inishowen peninsula. Afterwards, head along Lough Swilly’s coast and linger at the Railway Tavern, a former station house, for sustenance.
Admission Free, discoverireland.ie
Fore Abbey, Co Westmeath, circa 630AD
The seven wonders of Fore relate to the construction stage of Fore Abbey and strange manifestations in the local landscape, from rivers flowing uphill to the boggy terrain that carried the foundation.
I moved to Ireland when I was 15 due to my father's temporary assignment abroad with an insurance company. It was my mom, my dad, and me.
This two-hour train trip gets seriously scenic after Coleraine, when it partly follows the coast and Lough Foyle. As it runs along Downhill Beach, the sands and turbulent ocean are just outside the window, with the domed Mussenden temple perched on the cliffs above. On through farmland and past views of craggy Binevenagh – a towering cliff on the edge of the Antrim plateau – it will offer views of wintering geese, whooper swans and waders on the shores of the lough.
In the gloom caused by the loss of many rural bus services and Rishi Sunak’s shameful rollback of environmental pledges, there has been one gleam of (green) light. The bus fare cap, now set at £2.50 across England, will run until 30 November 2024. The cap doesn’t apply to buses in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, but there are still some reasonable fares, so here are 10 great sightseeing routes across the UK.
Tens of millions of travelers fly across large oceans annually. It’s routine these days. Main routes, such as between New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport and Heathrow Airport in Hounslow to the west of London, see over a dozen nonstop flights a day in each direction. The massive airports that serve them have multiple terminals connected by their own rail systems to move both people and their luggage. Thousands of workers start shifts before dawn and stay on duty until the last airplane has safely departed. More than 76,000 people work at LHR as flyers know it.
This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Niav Konno, a social-media strategist and content creator for small businesses, who lives in Makarska and runs the popular TikTok account @mylifeincroatia . It has been edited for length and clarity.
Two books bestrode my childhood, and made me the man I am: The Magic Bridle, a collection of British and Irish myths retold by the folklorist Forbes Stuart, which ignited my six-year-old imagination in 1974, and Mysterious Britain by Janet and Colin Bord, published two years earlier, and part of a then burgeoning bookseller phenomenon of often unreliable Earth mysteries compendiums. Nonetheless, they set this particular boy off, seeking out ancient sites whenever possible. Now everything has wilted but I still have calves of iron, and I can identify the outline of a hilltop earthwork from a moving car on a motorway as surely as a falcon seeing a field mouse 500 feet below.
Up a steep and grassy windblown hill, in the top row of what’s known as the new graveyard, the playwright Brian Friel lies buried under a dark, glossy slab etched with an image of a St. Brigid’s cross, a traditional Irish symbol woven from rushes.
This series of articles about credit cards, points and miles, and budgeting for travel is brought to you in partnership with The Points Guy.
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While studying in northern France in 1998, I didn't expect to celebrate Thanksgiving, but I was shocked to encounter French ignorance of Halloween, my favorite spooky holiday. This explained the absence of costumes, decorations, and candy corn, which compounded my culture shock.By the time my French partner and I moved back to France in 2008, I was a parent. I wanted to keep our American traditions alive, but finding not much more than carving pumpkins and a meager Halloween display in the grocery store, I scoured the internet for recipes and DIY decorations.
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