Cities of the North: Newcastle
21.07.2023 - 08:46
/ roughguides.com
If you want to understand Newcastle you first need to understand its place in the world – that is, a long way from anywhere. The next major city is Leeds, two hours drive to the south. To the north, beyond Hadrian's Wall, lie the Scottish borders. To the west, the windswept Northumberland moors. Head east and you're wading into the frigid waters of the North Sea. London feels very far away indeed.
You feel that isolation in the city's hard beauty. Wander along the Quayside, next to the River Tyne, listening to the mew of the oystercatchers stepping gingerly across the mudflats, and you'll see Newcastle gathered above you on the hillside, around its 12th-century castle keep. There are iron bridges ruled against the sky – mementos of the city's industrial heyday. Across the Millennium Bridge, on the Gateshead side of the river, is the towering Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art (a restored flour mill) and the silver ripple of the Sage Gateshead music centre, built during the spectacular regeneration of the Quayside in the 1990s and 2000s.
Tyne bridges © Thomas Rees
Isolation informs Geordie culture too. It breeds self-reliance, a strong sense of community and a deep pride in 'the Toon' (there's only one), which has helped the city celebrate the good times and endure the bad: the decline of the coal mining and shipbuilding industries that made the city's fortune in the 19th century and, in the last few years, swingeing cuts to funding for the arts. It also manifests itself in a weatherproof warmth. If there's one Geordie stereotype that rings true, it's disarming friendliness: 'Newcastle Hospitality' is 19th-century shorthand for, «excessive, almost overbearing, kindness – especially when it comes to buying someone a drink.»
Yet Newcastle's isolation also makes it easy to ignore. When it comes to culture, its many riches have often been overlooked. This year the Great Exhibition Of The North changed that, but as it draws to a close it would be all too easy for Newcastle to disappear off the map once again. So, with that in mind, here is a round-up of the best the city has to offer – from historic monuments and arts initiatives of global significance, to top food spots and welcoming pubs – with an emphasis on the traditional and the undersung. This is your guide to Geordie culture and where to find it.
Newcastle was one of the engine rooms of the industrial revolution, once home to world-leading inventors and engineers. For an insight into the city's industrial past, walk along the north bank of the Tyne out to Ouseburn. Wander among the old warehouses and factory buildings – now home to artists' studios and some of the city's most interesting music venues, such as The Cluny (a former whisky bottling plant) –