Travel, the movement of people from one place to another, has always existed. But long before we thought to travel for pleasure, we traveled for purpose: for commerce, and for faith.
20.10.2023 - 11:31 / nationalgeographic.com
Largely disconnected from the high-speed whizz of Japan’s big urban centres, the region of Tohoku in the far north of Honshu island has long been associated with folk art, crafts and talismans — made by hand and perfected over centuries by generations of artisans. Here in deep Japan, where rice paddies surround isolated houses and torii gates mark forest boundaries, these caretakers of tradition are making some of Japan’s most cherished treasures
Morioka, Iwate Prefecture
Morioka’s artisan ironware trade has stood the test of time far better than the feudal dynasty that spurred it into existence. The Nanbu clan’s castle lies in ruins, its fortifications demarcating what is now a vast garden complex of shrines and Edo-era relics in the city centre. My destination nearby is a studio where descendants of 17th-century artisans still labour in cotton vests over an open furnace stoked to 1,500C.
“This studio was founded in 1625 and I’m the 16th generation,” says Shigeo Suzuki as he leads me past shelves of cast-iron teapots and Buddhist ornaments, down a passageway to a single-storey workshop behind his gallery. Ironware craftsmen were invited to settle in Morioka 400 years ago by ruler Nanbu Toshinao, to work with abundant iron ore deposits found in the rivers. “Nanbu designated four families to make utensils for his tea ceremonies. Only two are left, and we’re one of them,” he adds.
The air inside the workshop has the sharp metallic tang of iron. Columns of rotund teapot moulds, made from a mix of clay, sand and mud, cover the right-hand wall. To my left are warped shelves with hundreds of design plates stacked like sheets of paper. “The process is similar to pottery,” says Suzuki. The metal plates are used to create an imprint inside the moulds, which are then baked over charcoal. Molten metal is poured into the moulds to make teapots. “I can produce a teapot design that’s over 100 years old, as long as I have the plate,” explains Suzuki, pulling down a dusty metal sheet no thicker than a piece of cardboard.
Nanbu ironware is prized for its quality and durability. The traditional production techniques create an oxide layer; when a Nanbu kettle is boiled, iron elements filter into the water, making a cup of tea act as a natural iron supplement. At the Iwachu factory in Morioka, visitors can see the Nanbu teapots being forged and buy one for as little as ¥9,000 (£50). But here, partly because of Suzuki’s provenance, prices can hit ¥800,000 (£4,420).
Suzuki’s great-grandfather was designated a living national treasure in Japan in 1974, because of his role in petitioning the government to let Nanbu production continue during WWII — an act that is believed to have prevented the industry from dying out
Travel, the movement of people from one place to another, has always existed. But long before we thought to travel for pleasure, we traveled for purpose: for commerce, and for faith.
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