Eating Baltimore: a foodie's guide to the city
21.07.2023 - 08:49
/ roughguides.com
A few hours’ drive from New York City (and just one hour from Washington DC), you’ll find Baltimore. Once viewed as a gritty seaport with a reputation for crime – a perspective reinforced by TV shows such asThe Wire – this Maryland city is now home to scores of millennials, magnetised by a lower cost of living and a quirky vibe.
But as well as cheap rent and urban regeneration, a flourishing foodie scene has put Baltimore on the map. With an abundance of fresh seafood, local craft beer and a unique approach to dining, Baltimore now rivals its east coast sisters for gastronomic credentials. Here's everything you need to know.
Baltimore’s speciality is plucked directly from its shores – but you can forget lobster rolls and clam chowders. If you visit for one reason, make it for a traditional Chesapeake crab feast. The ultimate celebration of this city’s finest foodie offering – and a meal that can take several hours – piles of steamed blue crab are devoured at trestle tables lined with brown paper.
Local beer is essential to wash down the salty tang of Old Bay seasoning, a signature Chesapeake ingredient no feast is complete without. There’s something satisfyingly carnal about rolling up your sleeves and picking away with crude implements. Everyone in Maryland has their own method for achieving success – handily for rookies, bystanders certainly won’t mind telling you exactly how it’s done.
Phoebe Lowndes
Crab carnage aside, you can still get stuck into the city's seafood – and there’s no shortage of creativity when it comes to this Chesapeake treat. As an alternative brunch option, head to Miss Shirley’s (a timeless Baltimore institution) and order Crab Eggs Benedict or their Maryland twist on the classic Bloody Mary (spoiler alert: it comes lavishly garnished with a helping of crabmeat).
However, crab cakes are what the city undeniably does best and every food joint claims to make the best in town. Phillips Seafood, situated in the heart of the Inner Harbour, makes these small patties to perfection. Book a table on their alfresco Crab Deck for a quintessential “Bawlmer” dining experience.
A new generation of restaurants have also polished the city’s down-to-earth swagger, demonstrating an unpretentious appreciation for fine dining. And it is home-grown talent and the US love of comfort food that shines through.
Catalonian restaurant La Cuchara is an excellent example of local chefs exploring global cuisine (in this case the Basque country) and bringing it home to fuse worldly technique and flavours with local produce. Think sophisticated, adventurous food without any stuffiness.
Need a quick bite, or somewhere to pitch up for the afternoon? Head to R House, a food market in an old auto bike garage, restored