As summer holidays come to an end, 50 Best has compiled its list of the World’s 50 Best Hotels in 2023.
11.09.2023 - 10:16 / theguardian.com
Berney Arms is one of England’s most remote railway stations. You can only get to this stretch of the Norfolk Broads by train, boat or a long walk. It’s 25 minutes’ train ride from Norwich, but only two trains stop most days, and I’ve never seen anyone else getting off. Outside the train window, a roe deer steps delicately through green marshes and an egret stands poised by the water. The strange wild beauty is what keeps me coming back. This time I’m arriving with my husband on the 7.36am train from Norwich to walk along the River Yare to Reedham. We head through into the first carriage, the only one that fits next to the tiny station.
There’s an immediate burst of loud, electronic chirruping from a Cetti’s warbler in the reeds as the train pulls away. Heading over soggy meadows towards Norfolk’s tallest drainage mill, we are quickly immersed in a wide, watery landscape. The air is alive with birds: the joyous sliding scales of sedge warblers and noisy peewits from lapwings flapping over the fields. The Broads national park is Britain’s largest protected wetland area and a quarter of the UK’s rarest species live here. Reclaimed from the sea more than four centuries ago, these grazing marshes are now lower than sea level and need protection from the higher tides and longer droughts of a changing climate.
We walk along the riverside embankment with good views in both directions: hares and muntjac deer race across the grass and buntings flit through the reeds. By noon, we’ve seen or heard more than 50 different species of birds. We pass a brown seal lolling on the grassy riverbank, and spot a Norfolk hawker dragonfly, huge and rare, resting among flowers.
Apart from one farmer, waving from his quadbike as he herds smiley Southdown sheep beside the marshes, we don’t see anyone else until we get to Reedham. It’s a day of frothing blossom and cow parsley, gold buttercup carpets and sun-brushed butterflies. But this is a complicated ecosystem, not a simple idyll. Marsh harriers hunt over the reedbeds and kestrels hang in the huge skies.
We detour away from the river towards Reedham church. When the tall, grey stone tower was built, Reedham was a coastal village by an estuary. One of the people who contributed towards building the tower was local heiress Margaret Paston, born in 1422 and married into a wealthy family of Norfolk farmers. The Paston family are famous for their rich archive of medieval letters, chronicling their daily lives and troubles during the Wars of the Roses. Margaret wrote more than a hundred of these letters and describes, among other things, defending the house from armed attack while her husband, John, was in London. In one letter, she asks John for more crossbows and poleaxes and
As summer holidays come to an end, 50 Best has compiled its list of the World’s 50 Best Hotels in 2023.
Drawing visitors since the 1700s, North Norfolk has long been a place of escapism. You arrive ready to fill your lungs with sea air and let your gaze drift to the horizon. The natural beauty here is not the kind that smacks you in the face and overwhelms with superlatives. The expansive beaches, endless skies, fenland and watery network of the Broads are a more subtle tonic for the soul — you don’t have to work too hard to forget life beyond this somewhat overlooked patch of East Anglia.
From St Ives station, there’s a view of sand, palms and, across misty blue water, a lighthouse on a rocky island. Virginia Woolf and her sister, artist Vanessa Bell, saw this view as children from the house their father rented. It later featured in Woolf’s novel To the Lighthouse, set in the Hebrides but clearly inspired by St Ives. She describes “the great plateful of blue water” and “hoary Lighthouse, distant, austere in the midst”. Images have lingered ever since I read it years ago at college, and my pub walk is something of a literary pilgrimage.
For generations, designers have adopted towns, villages, and other enclaves as second homes and visited them again and again, imprinting a touch of their own sensibility on their chosen place—and importing something of its essence into their own work. It’s the kind of symbiosis that Coco Chanel and Le Corbusier, who summered in neighboring homes, enjoyed with the Cote d’Azur’s Rouquebrune Cap-Martine, or Yves Saint Laurent with Marrakech and Tangier. More recently, Christian Louboutin popularized the Portuguese village of Melides, eventually opening Vermelho Hotel there earlier this year. Here, five designers on the places they go, and why they continue to be pulled back.
Ultra-cheap flights could be banned in Europe if a forthcoming proposal is approved by the EU: Officials in France want to set a price minimum on airfares across Europe to help reduce carbon emissions.
Overlooking the English Channel is a small resort town bedecked with freestone facades and half-timbered houses. English is heard everywhere, from the Art Deco Westminster hotel to the lighthouse, which, on the occasion of the late Queen Elizabeth II's Platinum Jubilee, was lit up with Her Majesty's favourite colours. The bells of city hall chime in an echo of Big Ben, and it was just announced that the town's airport will soon be rechristened after Queen Elizabeth II.
The first written evidence of beer being brewed and consumed dates back as far as 4,000BC, with the ancient Sumerians believed to have developed the earliest known methods for creating the alcoholic drink. Its history and connection to human civilisation runs deep, and a number of today’s beers have their own remarkable heritage.
There’s something wonderfully liberating about travelling alone and the following trips fulfil all the best aspects of being solo. No compromises to be made, no itineraries discussed; get up when you want, eat what you fancy, do nothing or everything, talk to the friendly person next to you at breakfast, or pop in your headphones and ignore them completely. When I’m travelling alone, I become the best version of myself; the most decisive, the most charming, the most curious. I see more, go further, strike up conversations with people I’ll never meet again, yet always remember. And even after 25 years of travelling, I still get the same feeling of satisfaction when I’m home – a quiet sense of pleasure that I did it all on my own.
Despite its famously sepia-toned skies, England remains a perennially popular destination.
For the first time, a nation is allowing travelers to cross its border with a digital passport on their smartphone instead of a physical passport. While the trial is happening in Finland, the European Union wants at least 80% of citizens in the 27-country bloc to be using a digital ID by 2030.
France’s transport minister announced this week that the nation plans to raise taxes on flights and reallocate funds to its railways. The news comes following a ban on short-haul domestic flights with train alternatives of 2.5 hours or less that came into effect in May. Both measures aim to reignite public interest in train travel in an effort to combat climate change.
Sometime around 1933, two teenage cousins, Harry Hall and Will Cubbon, paid a visit to a new friend of theirs named Gef. Gef lived in a remote, windswept farmhouse on the Isle of Man. He was very shy, and the cousins could hear and talk to him, but never saw their new friend. From behind a wall, Gef would guess heads-or-tails when a coin was flipped or play catch with a rubber ball through a hole in the attic ceiling.