I felt an instant pang of regret on my most recent Target shopping spree.
21.07.2023 - 07:45 / roughguides.com
Take a rail journey through Japan for a sensory overload of the island country in microcosm. Its tangled network of tracks intersecting at various points along the line from Tokyo through Fukushima to Nikko offers a fine introduction to its staggeringly beautiful and diverse landscapes.
Bright floral kimonos and retro signs soak the streets of Taito Ward, Tokyo's representative sightseeing spot, in vibrant colour. A stark contrast to the white, windswept slopes of Aizuwakamatsu (or Samurai City) in Fukushima. The panorama changes further still in Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture – a mottled land of lakes and mountains worlds apart from the bustling capital.
Savour the ever-changing scene from the train window in between exploring Taito, Fukushima and Nikko on foot. Linger a little longer in these three distinctly different places for hidden gems that reveal themselves to those with curious eyes.
Chagohan teahouse and cookery school, Tokyo © Don Kennedy
To step into Taito is to enter Tokyo in an entirely different era. Its streets strewn with bright red lanterns and retro signs unravel like ribbons, coiling round retro markets and shops, venerable shrines and temples.
This main artery of Asakusa leads to Kaminarimon Gate (‘Thunder Gate’), entrance to Sensoji, Tokyo's oldest temple.
Life pirouettes around Nakamise-dori Street, a 250-metre-long shopping street hemmed in by some 90 shops. At every turn, Japanese sweets fill the air with sweet scents amid conversation and laughter.
Beyond the elaborate structure, the frenetic pace of activity is stilled by Buddha’s teaching. At the other sightseeing spot, Ueno has Ueno Toshogu, a Shinto place of worship located in Ueno Park. This majestic building was built in 1627 in memory of Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542–1616), founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate.
It epitomises the elegant but effete architectural style of the Edo period (1603–1867) – the reason it is designated as an important cultural property of Japan.
In the face of repeated tragedies – the Battle of Ueno, at the end of Edo period (1868), the Great Kanto Earthquake (1923) and air raids on Japan during World War II (1945) – this time-honoured structure (restored in 1651) remains standing, continuing to impart calm upon tourists.
Follow the cherry-tree lined path to its karamon, gilded with gold. Engraved onto its pillars are two dragons: Noboriryu (Ascending Dragon) and Kudariryu (Descending Dragon). Their legend tells of two nightly fire-breathing visitors to the Shinobazu Pond, also located within the park.
Also providing a calming counterpoint to the unsleeping centre is the easternmost swathe of the ward. This sweep of green running alongside the Sumida River is where locals picnic beneath a dense canopy of cherry
I felt an instant pang of regret on my most recent Target shopping spree.
This as-told-to story is based on a conversation with Justin Miller, a Tokyo-based DJ and English teacher. He shares what he's learned about Tokyo after living in Japan for 15 years. It's been edited for length and clarity.
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This feature has been made possible by On The Go Tours, a specialist tour operator offering group tours, adventure holidays and tailor-made travel in over 60 countries.