Gothenburg at 400: Sweden’s second city discovers its fun side
21.07.2023 - 11:31
/ theguardian.com
It’s a gloriously sunny, if gusty, early-June day at Gothenburg’s new bathing harbour. My son Zac and I are among the first to brave the elements at an open-air complex of swimming and diving pools occupying part of Frihamnen, the city’s docklands that began to fall into disuse in the 1970s.
The unveiling of the pools is part of the city’s 400th-anniversary celebrations, which are taking place throughout the year – delayed from 2021 because of the pandemic. (The same thing happened to its 300-year anniversary plans in 1921 in the aftermath of the Spanish flu pandemic and first world war.) This west coast city began life as a fortified, mainly Dutch, trading colony founded by King Gustavus Adolphus and has grown into Sweden’s main fishing port and second-largest city.
Ten years ago, Gothenburg asked its citizens what they wanted for its 400th anniversary, having given them the Liseberg amusement park to mark the city’s third centenary. This time they said they’d like somewhere to swim in the inner city, not just in the more affluent areas. The day that we are there marks the realisation of that dream.
The pools have no bottom, so they are open to the harbour – there are nets to keep out the seals. But the water is naturally treated and energy efficient, pumping up clean sea water from below the harbour water. Also new at the site are thoughtfully designed children’s playgrounds with giant stone mollusc shells to clamber over, community-minded open-air pop-ups, such as recycling workshops, a DJ pavilion, and changing rooms. What’s more, it’s all free. There is, of course, a sauna too, made from recycling shipping materials (although this is closed for a refurbishment).
I’ve long been a fan of Scandi efficiency, design, progressive parenting and social policies – and cycling – and Gothenburg is a model city in these respects.
Everywhere you look, people hurtle along big wide bike paths that crisscross the city. While Zac and I don’t join them, we do spend a Sunday morning pootling around the city’s harbour and Dutch-style canals in a little self-drive electric boat steered by a wooden rudder, ogling the houseboats, old warships and ferries.
When we get back to the centre, we glimpse the king and queen of Sweden arriving at the city hall in a carriage for the anniversary celebrations. Then we stop for a drink on the canal-side terrace of the Havsbaren Tyska Bron.
Hopping aboard the city’s blue trams – some charmingly retro, some modern – is another fun way to get around. Within the next couple of years, Gothenburg will also have a one-line metro loop to further reduce car traffic and take people to its airport. It sounds forward-thinking, but this city has never rested on its laurels: in 2022’s Global