As summer ramps up in the northern hemisphere, many of us will begin packing suitcases, carry-ons and duffel bags as we prepare to head away on holiday.
21.07.2023 - 08:33 / roughguides.com
Founded by students in 2012, Pragulic – a social enterprise that helps the city’s homeless find work as tour guides – is seeing a growth in interest. Led by Robert, who has been without a permanent address for 12 years, Andrew Day veers off the Czech capital’s well-worn cobblestones to experience homelessness firsthand. But is it tourism or voyeurism?
“Here’s a Nokia programmed with emergency contacts, and your budget for the next 24 hours: 20 koruna (70p). Now I just need your clothes.”
It’s a cold January morning outside Prague train station and I’m surrendering my parka and trousers to Tereza Jurečková, co-founder of Pragulic. In exchange, I’m given a plastic bag containing a beige shellsuit jacket with a jammed zip and a pair of stained khaki trousers. I look around, and quickly get changed.
The shabby clothing is all part of the Pragulic experience: “You can only start to understand homelessness after you have tried it yourself,” as the website puts it.
Alongside Tereza stands my guide, Robert Pochop – a forty-something man with Tiggerish energy, who is keen to get going. Over the next 24 hours, Robert will be taking me to some of his regular haunts – and revealing a different side of Prague in the process.
Robert Pochop © Andrew Day
“Here’s a Nokia programmed with emergency contacts, and your budget for the next 24 hours: 20 koruna (70p). Now I just need your clothes.”
We say our goodbyes to Tereza and head into the busy station.
Mindful of his responsibility, Robert ushers me across the concourse – though, as we pass a ticket machine, he instinctively checks the slot for coins. We ride countless trains, and eventually arrive in Smíchov – an industrialised district mixing faded glory – of dilapidated factories and synagogues – with a newfound style made up of glass malls and boutique restaurants.
“There,” Robert said, pointing to the ČKD Tatra factory, which produced trams for Stalin’s Communist party in the late 1940s. Robert’s enthusiasm for the railroads is boundless and provides a unique way into Czech history and culture.
And we’re off again, passing Staropramen (Prague’s largest brewery) to reach the Salvation Army, where Robert works.
It’s not clear what we are doing – Robert’s explanations are sometimes cryptic – then, I’m shepherded towards a pyramid of cardboard boxes, which we, and half a dozen other employees, haul downstairs for the charity’s office move.
Robert is one of nine guides currently working with Pragulic. They earn a fixed fee per tour plus tips, with the rest reinvested into running costs.
“But it’s not just about finding employment,” Tereza explained earlier. “We offer guides a range of development programs, from teaching English to building self-confidence.”
Via a dose of Czech
As summer ramps up in the northern hemisphere, many of us will begin packing suitcases, carry-ons and duffel bags as we prepare to head away on holiday.
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