In this series, we take you step by step through how we planned some of the most complicated travel adventures. Here, writer Paul Stafford shares how he put together his long-distance Glyndŵr’s Way hike through the rural core of central Wales.
To those outside of Wales, Glyndŵr’s Way is as little known as the eponymous Welsh nationalist hero it’s named after. This multi-day traipse through some of the most sparsely populated places in Great Britain provides a wonderful introduction to the Welsh heartland’s natural beauty, local history and rural heritage.
Glyndŵr’s Way starts on the border of Wales and England, then weaves through 135 miles (217km) of the remotest reaches of Wales’ green, undulating heartland, almost reaching the sea before curling round and returning to the border further north at Welshpool. It’s as if the route were planned by a fugitive escaping capture by the crown’s forces – and a reminder of Owain Glyndŵr’s life and legacy, which was defined by his land’s complex entanglement with England, and the persistent threat posed by King Henry IV to Welsh sovereignty and tradition.
Although designed a National Trail – which brings excellent upkeep of such infrastructure as gates and signage – Glyndŵr’s Way is not a well-trodden route, and it’s possible to walk all day without seeing another soul. However, you’ll likely see plenty of red kites and buzzards wheeling overhead, among a variety of other birdlife, plus foxes, squirrels and rabbits. Here’s how to plan your trip.
Each month of the year gives the landscape a fresh makeover.
Fells covered in shimmering mauve blankets of heather in August. Patchwork quilts of wildflowers in May. The fiery woodland mosaics of autumn, and droves of snow in the winter months. No matter when you choose to go, nature presents a variety of enthralling masks here.
Glyndŵr’s Way passes through land that’s remote but never truly wild, mostly given over to fields of grazing sheep, and interspersed with clumps of woodland. Because Wales can get rather wet at any time of year, the best way to choose when to go is to think about how the landscape will be colored during different parts of the year. Early summer is often the driest time to visit, although rain is no stranger then.
If you plan to hike between late autumn and early spring, you might want to give yourself more time to complete the route, thanks to diminished daylight hours and spells of inclement, hiking-unfriendly weather.
Channel your inner Glyndŵr and set your own rules.
The official route suggestion is to start in Knighton and finish in Welshpool, although the signage is equally visible in either direction. For hikers in very good shape, it is possible to complete the full 135-mile (217km) route in
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