Earlier this summer, I flew roundtrip from New York City to Paris on JetBlue. On the way there, I flew in Mint, the airline's business class section, and returned in an "even more space" seat, an economy option with more legroom.
04.08.2023 - 18:39 / cntraveler.com
Just an hour away from Rwanda’s famed gorilla trekking and nestled amongst inactive volcanoes lies a little-visited but spectacular sight: the country’s Twin Lakes. Early in the morning, small islands on Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo glow white against velvety blue water as fishermen begin their day. Then, when the afternoon sun burns away the mist, verdant green hills appear.
Despite the area’s beauty, there were few accommodation options and activity offerings before the coronavirus pandemic. Now, change is finding its way to the region: Scenic boat trips, kayaking excursions, bike rides, and hikes are all on offer. The area is also now hosting Rwanda’s creative core outside of Kigali: An artist residence, gallery, and vegan meditation retreat overlook the volcanic shores. And soon, a James Beard-award winning chef with a restaurant in the capital city of Kigali will bring a restaurant to Lake Ruhondo, as well as an accompanying culinary institute. A number of well-equipped guesthouses and new roads have sprung up over the last few years. And the famed Virunga Lodge, a stalwart luxury lodge that has been around for decades, now offers even more activities focusing on the lakes, like lakeside hikes and boat trips.
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Views from Virunga Lodge include both the twin lakes and are framed by three big volcanoes: Muhabura, Sabyinyo, and Gahinga.
Because Rwanda hosts dozens of high profile conferences every year, new roads are built almost weekly, and it feels like country-wide growth is earth-shatteringly quick, activity at the Twin Lakes stands in beautiful contrast: things are slower, activities in the area are deliberate and serene, and the views are sweeping and half of the joy. Though the lakes are definitely off the beaten path and tourism infrastructure is limited, visiting now is more rewarding than ever—and opportunities for travel are only growing.
Local boats on Lake Ruhondo can connect visitors with island campsites and water activities.
Fly into Kigali International Airport, which offers nonstop flights from London, Istanbul, Brussels, and Amsterdam. RwandAir, the country’s national airline, has promised direct flights from New York with a refueling stopover in Accra, Ghana, to begin soon as well. Upon arrival, consider staying a night in Kigali to get your bearings and explore the dynamic city. If you plan to do gorilla trekking about an hour away, in addition to the lakes or other stops in Rwanda, book your transportation through a tour agency or private transfer service.
If you want to explore the lakes and the surrounding
Earlier this summer, I flew roundtrip from New York City to Paris on JetBlue. On the way there, I flew in Mint, the airline's business class section, and returned in an "even more space" seat, an economy option with more legroom.
This is an as-told-to essay based on a conversation with Lawrence Phillips, who founded Green Book Global, a Black travel review site, in 2018. The essay has been edited for length and clarity.
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