I've been to North Korea more than 180 times. Here's how tourists can stay out of trouble.

23.08.2024 - 09:44 / insider.com / Kim Jong Un

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Simon Cockerell, a manager at the travel agency Koryo Tours. It has been edited for length and clarity.

The first time I went to North Korea, I thought I knew what to expect.

I was living in Beijing at the time, which was near North Korea. I figured it would be a bit like China or a bit like Russia.

There are definitely those elements, especially if you look for them; but the reality is that it is its own place.

In the two decades since then, I've visited North Korea more than 180 times on various tours and trips — perhaps the most of any Westerner.

North Korea has been closed to visitors for almost five years, but is partially opening up to tourists at the end of 2024.

I've shown hundreds of visitors around the country over the years, and if you've ever thought of visiting, this is how to get the most out of a trip to North Korea.

Interacting with the local people and tour guides in the country is not like meeting aliens — it's actually one of my favorite things to do. The fact remains though, that when you're allowed to interact with them, you need to watch what you talk about.

You don't have to go around praising North Korea's leaders, but openly criticizing Kim Jong Un is a definite no-no.

I'm technically allowed to talk about what I want because I'm not a North Korean, but I am also aware that people there don't have that freedom.

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So if I go over there and say, "Oh, hey guys, I want to tell you the truth about your leaders, they're actually quite terrible," I'm putting them in a very, very dangerous position.

Tourism is important to some people there, but nothing is more important than the perception of national security.

You can find some common ground to talk about, but you have to work at it because your cultural references are all completely different. So you can't say, "Oh my gosh, did you see 'Deadpool & Wolverine?'" because they will have no idea what you're talking about.

This is the most common reason foreigners get detained in North Korea.

Most of the ways tourists get into trouble in North Korea is for acts that have been pre-meditated, like leaving a Bible behind, handing out religious material, or bringing in other contraband.

South Korean cultural products like Korean dramas or K-pop songs should definitely be left behind before coming into North Korea.

Other things on the list include religious material and any material about North Korea published abroad, whether it's literature, guidebooks, or videos.

Then you have the usual — no weaponry, no narcotics. North Korea is actually very permissive about alcohol consumption, so that's OK.

A lot of tourists who come to North Korea have experience in South Korea as