Good morning from Skift. It’s Friday, June 7, 2024. Here’s what you need to know about the business of travel today.
Inside One Of Italy’s Most Mesmerizing And Unique Beach Resorts
22.05.2024 - 13:31 / forbes.com
I haven’t ever gone through border control dressed in beachwear, but one day last June I found myself doing just that, as I crossed from France into Italy, ready for a day at the Spiaggetta dei Balzi Rossi, one of Italy’s legendary beach clubs.
No summer trip to Italy is complete without a visit to a surfside club, or lido (also referred to in the plural as bagni, or stabilmenti balneari) and there are thousands of them along the country’s 8000-kilometer coastline. These clubs have been cherished gathering spots since the nineteenth century; after WWII they helped establish the country’s dolce vita bona fides, when mega-stars of the day like Brigitte Bardot and Clark Cable came to frolic at La Fontelina in Capri, and Audrey Hepburn and Aristotle Onassis basked in the sun (or umbrella shade) of the Lido di Venezia. With July and August visits to a seaside oasis almost a constitutional birthright, one Italian government official made a point of telling her countrymen during the stringent Covid lockdowns,”This summer, we will go to the beach.”
I was staying in Menton, where Vera Kovacs, who founded La Spiaggetta, and today runs it with her husband, music producer Gualtiero Gatto, has come to pick me up in what looks like a golf cart, but is actually a road-running Ape (the Italian word for bee), a compact vehicle popular in Italy. Like many stylish Italian women Kovacs does summer casual with a high sheen and tasteful panache—a smart sundress in orange cotton, a few select pieces of gold jewelry, and Riviera glam sunglasses. Kovacs deftly steers the Ape to the border, where frontier police wave us through.
What seems like moments later, we’re rolling onto the grounds of La Spiaggetta, located in the Italian village of Grimaldi Inferiore (a frazione of Ventimiglia). Kovacs points to huge slabs of rock, forming a prehistoric terrace jutting out into the sea. “They still find fossils there,” she says.
La Spiaggetta’s setting is unique for a number of reasons, thanks to its location near the Balzi Rossi caves, one of Europe’s most notable archaeological sites, with remains from the earliest Europeans, including a Cro-Magnon man. Excavated at the behest of Monagesque princes (Florestan I and Albert I), the site, sometimes described as a Paleolithic Park, also has a Museum of Prehistory that was inaugurated in 1960 by Prince Rainier and Princess Grace of Monaco.
Although there are many beach options along the Côte d'Azur, La Spiaggetta lures the French and Monagesque to cross the border, often by yacht, for a unique slice of Riviera heaven. The club opens in time for the Monaco Grand Prix (this year May 24-26), an unofficial start to summer in the area.
And you can see why the French sail by, joined by the
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