Maeshowe: The UK's doorway to another world

27.12.2023 - 18:07 / bbc.com

Located 10 miles off Scotland's north-eastern coast, the Orkney islands are a treasure trove of history, from the famous Neolithic village Skara Brae to the hauntingly beautiful Ring of Brodgar – a spellbinding stone circle that was a site of ritual and ceremony. However, when I visited another of Orkney's famous prehistoric sites, the Maeshowe tomb, my first impression was of an unremarkable green mound surrounded by a ditch.

Despite its appearance, this 5,000-year-old burial cairn is actually a masterpiece of ancient design and engineering, and a testament to the skill of Orkney's prehistoric residents. That's because, for around three weeks either side of the winter solstice (which takes place on 21 or 22 December each year), visitors have the chance to see something truly magical occur here.

During this time of year, the narrow passage into the tomb becomes more than just an entrance: it was deliberately designed to align with the setting of the midwinter sun. Just as the last rays start to disappear – which is at around 15:10 at this deepest, darkest time of midwinter – a shaft of light creeps down the passageway, slips across the floor of the tomb and illuminates the back wall like a golden, glowing doorway to another world.

"The winter solstice is a pivotal time of year and Maeshowe represents thousands of hours of backbreaking work," explained monument manager Phil Hopkins. "If you're there when it works, when the sun sets at the right time, it's awe-inspiring. There's a hushed atmosphere, like when you're in a cathedral."

Thousands of years ago, Maeshowe would have helped locals cope with the depths of winter. Since it would be dark for 18 hours a day, the startling contrast of the dark tomb being suddenly transformed would reassure them that the days would soon slowly start to lengthen. The light would have reminded them of the re-emergence of life on Earth in spring – and perhaps also the tantalising promise of eternal life in another world.

"It's a very moving experience but it doesn't require you to suspend belief. If nothing else, it shows you that you're in a world that's turning," Hopkins said.

Ellie Shiel took a temporary job as a steward at Maeshowe 17 years ago and is still there, endlessly fascinated by the history that unravels around her. "I've only missed seeing the winter solstice here twice in that time and that's because we were closed during Covid," she said. "The experience is genuinely magical and no matter how many times I see it, it's always different, with the sun hitting the wall differently and in varying strengths."

She explained that while they are already fully booked for the 21 December tour, "the beauty of it is that you can come early or late December into