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Maryland fried chicken: A storied dish with Titanic history
15.11.2023 - 15:35 / bbc.com
Anyone interested in food as a window to class could do worse than exploring the options available on the RMS Titanic. The handful of menus that survived the wreck reveal important differences in the way the ocean liner's passengers ate. While third-class passengers dined on rice soup, gruel and cabin biscuits (essentially, a stomach-settling hardtack), first-class diners had a panoply of options.
Now, a first-class dinner menu from the Titanic – from 11 April 1912 – has been sold at an auction held on 11 November at Henry Aldridge & Son in Devizes in Wiltshire, England.
Andrew Aldridge, Managing Director at Henry Aldridge & Son, has more than 25 years of experience valuing and selling Titanic memorabilia. But Aldridge has more than just a business interest in the ocean liner. Like many people, he's been fascinated with the stories of the Titanic since he was a child; his eighth birthday cake was shaped like the Titanic. And what stands out most to Aldridge is "the breadth and volume of food that was on offer. First-class passengers on the Titanic were extremely well looked after."
That meant multiple courses, and multiple options for each course. Diners could choose from a menu that might include beef sirloin, spring lamb or duck in a port wine sauce. On 14 April, the infamous day Titanic struck an iceberg, diners had another choice: "chicken à la Maryland", also known as "Maryland fried chicken".
"It's a way of affording status to what is essentially a humble dish," says Joyce White, a food historian based in Annapolis, Maryland.
Maryland fried chicken – essentially, pan-fried chicken with a cream gravy – didn't always need the French accent to appeal to the upper class. In the early 19th Century, fried chicken was squarely a special-occasion dish, frequently cooked by enslaved African American women for wealthy Maryland households.
Those same women would often raise chickens and then sell the eggs – sometimes, even to their slaveholders – to trade for goods. "That was a mode of being able to earn some cash or trade for goods that you weren't allocated," White says. Slaughtering a young hen for an everyday meal just didn't make economic sense; the eggs were far more valuable than the meat.
But by the time Maryland fried chicken made its way onboard the Titanic, the rise of the commercial egg industry had changed that calculation. And so fried chicken, too, started to change from a status-connoting dish to more populist picnic fare. It's no wonder upper-class diners on the Titanic needed the "à la".
Despite its popularity, tracing Maryland fried chicken back to a single, definitive recipe can be challenging. Even famed culinarian James Beard had difficulty landing on a version to include in his
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