Once home to a great ancient empire and now a cutting-edge and progressive modern capital, Mexico City has been one of the Americas’ mightiest metropolises since its inception.
03.10.2023 - 09:29 / nytimes.com
Mexico does not have a long history with ice cream. The country’s first versions of the dessert were akin to snow cones, made from ice that was harvested from the summits of the country’s volcanoes and transported via donkeys and mules to urban areas. With a dash of salt and fruit mixed in, these “raspados” (literally, shavings) or “nieves” (snow), were prepared in flavors like lime and guava and were sold out of pushcarts along streets, just as they are today.
That changed roughly 80 years ago, when locals no longer needed to rely on these troves for their ice supply. With the advent of the refrigerator, ice cream shops started to blossom throughout Mexico City. Today, you can teleport from the capital city’s present into its past by visiting both of-the-moment ice cream parlors that are branching away from traditional flavors and shops from the last century that remain practically untouched by the hand of time. Here are five spots to hit on an ice cream tour of the city.
“I’ve always been thinking about ice cream,” said Julia Ortiz Monasterio about the origins of Cometa, the artisanal ice cream shop she opened five years ago in the Roma neighborhood. Using almost exclusively local ingredients (down to the sugar), Cometa specializes in making quintessentially Mexican flavors that are not typically used for ice cream.
A September specialty, the baby blue-hued maize flavor — made to celebrate Cometa’s anniversary as well as Mexican Independence Day — has garnered somewhat of a cult following, with customers from across town making annual buying trips. Equally appetizing as it is curious is sweet potato, which is inspired by the city’s traveling food carts that sell roasted yams, and whose loud whistle has become one of the capital’s most recognizable sounds. Made from both orange and purple potatoes, the ice cream is a cosmic two-toned concoction with a sweet base that’s provided by a strong splash of caramelized milk. Then there’s a prickly pear (tuna in Spanish variation, an explosion of cream and magenta that derives its beautiful colors from the bright pink cactus flower from which it is made.
“It’s so much more interesting to me to show people that you can make ice cream with ingredients they don’t expect,” said Ms. Ortiz Monasterio from her tiny shop inside an exquisite late-19th-century mansion. It’s also her way of taking advantage of the flavors that make Mexican culture so particularly rich (70 pesos, or about $4, for a single scoop; 105 pesos, or about $6, for a double; Colima 162, Roma Norte).
Like Cometa, Casa Morgana is part of a new crop of highly modern confectioners whose signature, nontraditional flavors have garnered acclaim in an ice cream scene that, until recently, was dominated
Once home to a great ancient empire and now a cutting-edge and progressive modern capital, Mexico City has been one of the Americas’ mightiest metropolises since its inception.
While the United States of America is certainly on the younger side when compared to certain European and Asian nations, the country isn’t totally devoid of time-honored celebrations, with Halloween serving as a cultural staple at the very end of October. Also known as All Hallows’ Eve, this fall festival took hold across North America due to the influx of Irish and Scottish immigrants during the 1800s, and is celebrated today with pumpkin carving, colorful costumes, and plenty of sugary treats—and when it comes to planning the perfect party, no one does it quite like the East Coast. With the holiday season in full swing, these spirited cities are packed full of lively events and late-night parties for all to enjoy.
With a population of over 21 million people, Mexico City is a densely packed metropolis with Indigenous origins dating back to the 1300s, when it was called Tenochtitlan.
I grew up in a Mexican household in the heart of American suburbia, one of those kids who spent their childhood ping-ponging across the border. Summers meant Mexico, splitting my time between the north and west, as comfortable on janky city buses as I was body surfing on white capped waves. Adulthood meant more of the same, but instead of summer months, it was entire years, and instead of the north and west, it was the south and east.
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As Morocco continues its recovery from last month’s earthquake (which devastated many of the rural communities in the High Atlas Mountains), life in Marrakesh carries on largely uninterrupted, especially in the city’s economically vital tourism sector. That includes the opening of a clutch of new hotels, like Farasha Farmhouse, a four-room boutique property. Formerly an artist’s private retreat, Farasha, which lies 30 minutes outside of the city center, is the vision of Rosena and Fred Charmoy. The Marrakesh-based couple are the founders of Boutique Souk — a local high-end events company popular with visiting celebrities and fashion brands (their client list includes Chanel and Saint Laurent) — and are known for their theatrical, over-the-top parties and weddings. Farasha, though, is a more tranquil endeavor. “We loved the mountain views on both sides of the property,” says Rosena, referring to the Atlas and Jbilet ranges that appear to envelop the acres of olive groves and herb gardens. The two-story main building, which holds three suites and the soaring, open-plan common space, is complemented by a neighboring stand-alone cottage. To furnish the place, the Charmoys turned to local creative friends: floors are laid with custom tapestries from Beni Rugs; sculptures were installed by the Moroccan contemporary artist Amine El Gotaibi; and the book collection comes from the family estate of Diana Vreeland, the legendary former editor of Vogue, donated to the hotel by her son Freck, who served as the U.S. ambassador to Morocco. Food here is similarly considered, overseen by the chef Aniss Meski. The olive oil is made on-site, most vegetable dishes use the farm’s produce and a flock of chickens provides a daily supply of fresh eggs. And if the prospect of snagging one of only four guest rooms seems like a tall challenge, fear not: six more will be available to book starting next year.
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Puerto Escondido is famous for its waves for expert surfers and has places for beginners. (Photo Credit: Ministry of Tourism of Mexico, Sectur)
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