On Yorkshire shores: dinosaurs, birds and beaches on a wild autumn tour
13.11.2023 - 19:41
/ theguardian.com
“Look,” said Liam Herringshaw, pointing at a melon-sized bulge in the layers of rock fronting the prom in Scarborough. “There’s where a five-toed dinosaur walked 160 million years ago.”
It was probably an 11-tonne cetiosaurus (whale lizard), he said, digging from his bag a picture of a long-necked dino with a small head and trunk-like legs. Toe shapes are visible on the bulge’s outer edge, which means this would have been one of the creature’s back feet (front feet had a different toe arrangement).
Liam, paleontologist, tour guide and overall fossil enthusiast, loves the way that – unlike ammonites, which are the bodies of unexciting sea molluscs – fossil footprints are a record of gigantic prehistoric creatures going about their lives. When I asked how the prints had survived, he told me Jurassic times were much hotter: Yorkshire then had a southern Mediterranean climate, and this dent in mud could have been baked by hot sun.
We saw several fossil prints on a stroll along South Cliff, passing Scarborough Spa, sometime venue for the Yorkshire Fossil festival, which Liam co-founded in 2014. Liam said autumn and winter is the ideal time to spot fossils – seaweed dies off, storms wash away the sand, and flat rocks reveal their secrets at low tide.
Scarborough is known for summer fun on its two huge sandy beaches, but out of season there’s lots besides fossils to enjoy here and on the rest of Yorkshire’s coast, thanks to an initiative called Route YC. Billed as “Yorkshire’s ultimate road trip”, its six itineraries explore lesser-known aspects of North and East Yorkshire’s 90 miles of coast. But we wanted to do a lower-carbon tour of the area between Scarborough and Bridlington, and the online maps – listing places of interest from surfing beaches to nature reserves, viewpoints and cycle routes, as well as places to eat and sleep – are helpful for a car-free trip too.
We arrived in Scarborough by train via York, and then, over several days, used the northern route running south along the coast. A 15-minute, £2.20 ride away is Filey, a small town of 6,000 people with a huge beach. When I was a child in Hull, my primary school would charter a train each summer and bring the whole school here for a day. The sight of the sea from the top of Cargate Hill brought memories flooding back: the grassy area where we ate our “pack-up” (egg sandwiches in tinfoil), the shocking chill of the sea.
Filey didn’t seem to have changed much, retaining its fishing village feel. Its quaint grid of streets is all independent retailers and cafes, and traditional cobles – small fishing boats with a high prow – still launch from the Coble Landing slipway. (Dutch Gin – jenever – was apparently smuggled through Filey in such