‘People dance on tables’: welcome to Belgrade’s kafana pub culture
22.11.2023 - 12:35
/ theguardian.com
I’m in a good old-fashioned pub, drinking beer over wooden tables and tucking into a hearty meal. Except the wooden tabletops are covered in red checked cloths, the decor is Balkan folk.
Instead of a roast I’m diving into a pile of minced beef sausages called ćevapi and imbibing shots of rakia, the localplum brandy. An accordion player draws musical breaths in a corner, his companion strikes Gypsy tunes from a fiddle, people dance on tables. Welcome to the kafana.
Kafanas are Serbia’s tavernas: a restaurant, pub and music venue operating from morning to late night. Regulars come for a lively breakfast before work, families throw weddings and celebrations here, business deals are cut and sorrow drowned in dark corners. They were so central to people’s daily lives that friends and the postman would come to find you at your local kafana, not your home.
Sadly, many traditional kafanas closed down in the 2000s, partly because of their reluctance to prioritise profit-making over letting regulars sit at one table all day. However, much like struggling British pubs turning to gastronomy, kafanas have adapted their offerings to survive, heralding a culinary comeback. I’m following a revamped kafana tour through the heart of Belgrade with seasoned bekrija – kafana regular – Goran Magdić from local tour operator Taste Serbia.
We begin the day with breakfast at the city’s oldest kafana Znak Pitanja meaning “the question mark”, which started life in the 16th century as an Ottoman coffee house. A cosy, wood-panelled restaurant in a low building with overhanging lintels, it sits opposite one of Belgrade’s oldest churches. The patrons got in trouble for calling it “the bar by the church,” so stuck up a “?” and never bothered to rename. Seated at low sofra tables, we are served Turkish coffee roasted on a brazier followed by a fiery shot of rakia – supposedly the key to Balkan longevity. After this come omelettes and pies laden with cheese, soft folds of bread, fried dough uštipci and smoked meats.
This kafana’s Ottoman style is just one of the many influences found in Belgrade’s varied streetscape, where east and west converge. Ornate art nouveau and neoclassical facades are offset by megalith communist-era blocks. The kafanas, too, have evolved into three distinctive styles.
Some are eastern-leaning, with hearty Balkan cuisine and raucous Gypsy trumpet bands. Others are Austro-Hungarian style, serving dishes like goulash, with stringed instruments and accordions setting the mood. More recently, nightclub-style kafanas have popped up, which amp up traditional music into turbofolk, and pull a younger crowd bent on revelry.
Turbofolk later: for now I’m exploring Skadarlija, a cobbled street that was once the city’s