If you’re heading to one of Greece’s biggest tourist attractions later this year, make sure you are aware of the new visiting rules.
21.07.2023 - 08:38 / roughguides.com
Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s second city, is the oldest continually inhabited city in Europe. It's also one of the continent’s brightest upcoming stars, and will be a European Capital of Culture in 2019. As well as offering archaeological treasures by the barrow-load, it is one of the most culturally vibrant places in southeastern Europe, with enough cultural festivals, arty neighbourhoods and cool bars to keep today’s urban explorers more than happy.
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Plovdiv Old Town offers arguably the best preserved collection of traditional architecture anywhere in southeastern Europe. If you want to know what Balkan towns looked like before the twentieth-century, then this is the place to find out. It was here that Plovdiv’s rich Bulgarian, Greek and Armenian merchants built large walled and gated houses, their overhanging upper storeys jutting out above narrow cobbled streets. Furnished in an opulent mixture of eastern and western styles, many are now open to the public as museum houses. If you only have time for one of them, visit the ornate Kuyumdzhiev House, now home to the Ethnographic Museum.
Not every city has a Roman stadium bang in the middle of its main shopping street, and while only one end of Plovdiv’s stadium is actually visible (the rest is still underground), it’s still a pretty dramatic sight, with its curve of terraced seating sitting in a hollow beneath a busy pedestrian precinct. Recently re-landscaped to form an attractive archeological park, it's the perfect place to start your stroll of discovery through Roman Plovdiv. A little way uphill, on the fringes of the Old Town, is a Plovdiv's Roman theatre, a beautifully preserved amphitheatre that is still in use as a spectacular open-air performance venue. Roman streets and mosaics can still be seen in situ thanks to ongoing excavations around the forum, next to today’s Central Post Office.
The spectacular Roman amphitheatre in Plovdiv © RossHelen/Shutterstock
A great way to delve into other sides of the city is to follow the suggestions provided by the Alternative Map of Plovdiv. A guide to the less obvious things to do in Plovdiv, it's a fascinating exercise in cultural tourism that tells you where to find Bauhaus-influenced architecture, industrial heritage, and communist-era street mosaics – along with all manner of overlooked architectural gems.
Right next to the centre but very much a self-contained world of its own, the Kapana district is where the old and new Plovdiv come so fruitfully together. Formerly the bazaar quarter, this tight web of cobbled streets still contains the kind of artisan studios and craft shops that characterise the Balkans of yore – alongside a thoroughly contemporary breed of café-bars, discos and clubs.
If you’re heading to one of Greece’s biggest tourist attractions later this year, make sure you are aware of the new visiting rules.
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Descending the steps into the ancient amphitheatre of Philippopolis I paused to look out over the dusty panorama, under which a city with thousands of years of history laid. As one of two European Capitals of Culture for 2019, I came to Plovdiv with little to no knowledge of the city but high expectations. What I was about to learn did not disappoint.
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